In this month of sloshy Oktoberfest beer steins, dirndls and casing-wrapped meat, we mustn’t forget about mustard – a gewürz, as pretzel-chewing Germans call a seasoning or condiment. We tasked our editorial staff with finding the unsurpassed in an informal judging of six Wisconsin-made mustards. The tangy, pungent and, in some cases, sweet notes were best sampled with the Bavarian accompaniment of soft, chewy pretzels, procured from the terrific Riverwest-based Milwaukee Pretzel Company.
Illustration by Kevin Lawler.
Winner
Silver Spring Spicy Brown Deli-style Mustard
Not too assertive or dominant in heat, pungency or tanginess. The Eau Claire-hailing mustard has a “well-balanced,” horseradishy finish that “would make it great with ham,” says a taster.
Second Place
Sprecher Spicy Brown Beer Mustard
A hit with staffers who appreciated the hot-sweet duality, a keen combo of honey, mustard seed, white wine, a hint of paprika and, of course, Sprecher beer.
Honorable Mention
Patz Honey Mustard
Made by a company (in Pound, Wis.) known for honey and maple syrup, this recruit won over one fan with its “bright, vinegary” flavor, which seems an ideal partner for a chicken nugget.
‘Pretzel, Meet Mustard’ appears in the October 2015 issue of Milwaukee Magazine.
Ann Christenson has covered dining for Milwaukee Magazine since 1997. She was raised on a diet of casseroles that started with a pound of ground beef and a can of Campbell's soup. Feel free to share any casserole recipes with her.
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