Thanksgiving is a time of celebration, gratitude, and for many people, turkey. But for Milwaukee’s vegetarians, the holiday centerpiece looks a little different. Whether it’s a roasted cauliflower, a lentil loaf or a massive seasonal squash, plant-based eaters are reimagining the traditional indulgence of a Thanksgiving meal in creative, meat-free ways.
For some vegetarian inspiration this holiday season, we talked to two of the city’s prominent spots for vegetarian food about how they approach Thanksgiving dinner, their go-to dishes and cooking techniques, and what they serve instead of the classic turkey.
On Milwaukee’s East Side, Beans and Barley offers vegetarian alternatives meant to be enjoyed by everyone. Co-owner James Neumeyer, a lifelong vegetarian, loves Thanksgiving for the inventive opportunities it gives plant-based cooks.
One of his favorite things to cook for the holidays is tofu. It’s versatile, soaks up sauces, and tastes great whether you’re vegetarian or not.
“It gives you a really traditional base,” he says. “We like to tear it up and marinate it in soy sauce and traditional spices like paprika, sage, salt and pepper.” This year, he plans on turning it into a comforting tofu pot pie.
At home, he also loves preparing butternut squash lasagna and pumpkin lasagna, which he tops with a vegan ricotta. For side dishes, he sticks to the classics: marinated mushrooms and roasted Brussels sprouts are simple, satisfying and always delicious.
When it comes to turkey replacements, Neumeyer doesn’t feel the need for an elaborate centerpiece, but he has some elegant ideas for those that do.
“A beautifully set up butternut squash lasagna is a showstopper,” he says. “Sometimes we make a vegetable tray and pick a veggie to hollow out and fill it with a dip. It ends up being a floral-looking centerpiece that decorates the table.”
For those looking for something a bit bolder, he suggested the idea of a Wellington-style cauliflower – a roasted cauliflower wrapped in pastry for a festive centerpiece.
Across town, Twisted Plant’s co-owner Brandon Hawthorne is brainstorming his own plant-based Thanksgiving. As a vegetarian for seven years, his lineup includes mac and cheese, yams, greens, country-style gravy, pasta salad and sweet potato pie.
For turkey replacements, he recommends Tofurky, Gardein cutlets and seitan-based ham. His favorite pantry ingredients are a simple veggie broth and a variety of vegan cheeses, which he says can transform almost any vegetarian dish.
For Hawthorne, dessert is the highlight of the holiday. His favorite options include sweet potato pie, banana pudding and peach cobbler.
“To those trying to make a Thanksgiving dinner without meat, my best advice is to try to step outside your comfort zone,” he says. “There are a lot of vegan gurus and videos to show you how to create memorable dishes and have a great time during the holidays.”
Thanksgiving may look a little different for Milwaukee’s vegetarians, but the spirit remains the same. Both Hawthorne and Neumeyer agree that it’s not the turkey on the table that makes Thanksgiving memorable, but the love and effort behind the meal.
“Whether you’re good at cooking or not, it really doesn’t matter,” says Neumeyer. “As long as you put in the time, that’s what’s really meaningful when cooking for your family.”
