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We review Central Standard Craft Distillery's baby bourbon.

1215_CS-Bourbon-Whiskey_20151013_124016-2_courtesy-Central-Standard-Craft-DistilleryWhen birthing bourbon, a 14-month gestation period seems a tad truncated. Good bourbon, the lords and laws of distilling dictate, requires proper ingredients (including a mash of at least 51 percent corn), proper care and years of proper patience. But Walker’s Point’s Central Standard Craft Distillery tests the patience part of that equation with its new bourbon, and does so with surprising results.

Aged in smaller barrels, with specially contoured interiors that increase the surface area contacting the whiskey, its flavoring process is somewhat accelerated. And even though this 90-proof “baby bourbon” brings the heated temperament you’d expect from such youth, it’s not overpowering. This lets its sweet nature come through, with strong notes of caramel and honey.

For those who want a bit less bite, ice helps. Priced at $35-$45 a bottle, it has flown off shelves. But it’s also available by the glass at Central Standard’s tasting room (613 S. Second St.), and another bourbon birthing is due in January. Here’s to a growing family.

‘Burn Notice’ appears in the December 2015 issue of Milwaukee Magazine.

Find the December issue on newsstands Nov. 30.

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