In Cambodian kitchens, the spice paste called kroeung is universal, but its flavor profile varies depending on the region. Nikki Podgorski makes hers in the style of her Cambodian heritage (the northwestern Battambang province), injecting this dazzling kroeung citrus chicken sandwich with earthy, brightly acidic flavor thanks to the power of lemongrass, galangal and ginger. The tender braised meat communes with crisp papaya salad inside a crusty, fresh baguette. It’s one of the handheld stars at Num Pang (translation: sandwich), the sensational Cambodian-style sandwich shop Nikki and her husband, Brian, have operated since April at 3rd St. Market Hall. 275 W. Wisconsin Ave. 

Shawarma Takeover

Shawarma is no longer niche. The Middle Eastern marinated meat cooked on a vertical spit is everywhere. I made a list – off the top of my head – of places that serve shawarma and quickly got to 14. That doesn’t include two national chains – Naf Naf Grill and Hummus Republic, which opened its first Wisconsin location in Tosa in June.

Some promise this delicious meat (a cousin of the gyro) in their name, like Shawarma King, Shawarma Palace and Mr. Shawarma. Earlier this year, Top Shawarma opened in the former hot dog joint Martino’s on Layton. One of Top Shawarma’s owners used to partner in Shawarma Palace (on Brady Street) and Pita Palace, which is also on Layton and also serves – you got it – shawarma.

I’m not complaining – I love shawarma. I love that there is chicken shawarma as well as beef, and that sometimes I can get a mix of the two. My favorite is at Al-Yousef Restaurant in Oak Creek. Pro tip: If the restaurant offers shrak (a flatbread stretched so thin, you can almost see through it), order it! There are some dishes I could burn out on, but shawarma – on shrak, if I can get it – is not one of them.

Fresh Air

This month’s first-ever Freshwater Food & Wine Festival – Sept. 19-20 on the Summerfest grounds – is appropriately set against the backdrop of Lake Michigan. Festival organizer Wes Shaver used the anatomy of the grounds to bring the event to life. A curated “Restaurant Row” (featuring local heavy hitters), a food truck park, The Champagne Room, a food hall entrepreneur space, and wine curated from seven regions are among Freshwater’s highlights.

Another is food personalities doing demos, tastings and competitions – some are names you probably know if you watch cooking shows like “Chopped” and “Hell’s Kitchen.” (Of course “Top Chef: Wisconsin” runner-up Dan Jacobs is one of them.) Shaver’s main professional gig is leading Milwaukee Pride, the organizer of PrideFest, so he knows how to put on a festival – but he’d never created one around food and wine. He tapped into his many local culinary connections – people, he says, who “want to contribute to something cool, new and exciting.”

The knobby root vegetable (aka celery root) has versatility as an advantage. Peel, shave and toss it raw into salads; chop and roast it, boil or bake it and make a mash or a puréed soup. “I’m such a sucker for it,” says Odd Duck’s Sam Ek, who likes to make 
a savory celeriac “cake.” 

The Soup Market ended its impressive 22-year run in July. Owner Dave Jurena said the “last straw” was the business’ eviction from its flagship cafe/production hub in Bay View. “I always thought the story would have more chapters, but sometimes that kind of stuff is beyond your control,” he says.• Ian’s Pizza’s new Harbor District location (2055 S. First St.) was projected to open in August, joining neighbors Casera Café and The Bridgewater. • Downtown taco joint Vagabond (1122 N. Edison St.) closed at the end of July after almost 12 years in business. • Back from a four-month pause in service, Easy Tyger (1230 E. Brady St.) has changed its focus to brunch, trading ramen for blueberry cream cheese pancakes. • The owners of Café Corazón are selling the building that houses their Bay View location (2394 S. Kinnickinnic Ave.). That location, one of three, will continue to operate until the building’s sale.