Coming and Going
• French chef Pierre Briere, whose Elliot’s Bistro closed after it was damaged by a fire in May 2008, has closed his other place, Hartford Bistro (3461 High Rd., Hartford, 262-670-9988). The economy certainly had a hand in it. Briere says he will return to what he loves most: “cooking and baking for the people who know, understand and appreciate the gastronomy and those who want to learn to be better in their kitchen,” he says. He plans to teach and work as a private chef. If you’d like to impress the world around you by whipping up some lobster Thermidor, steak au poivre, cassoulet or crêpes suzette, contact Briere by e-mail: pierrepepette@gmail.com
• Last week was still last year. Jon Gustavson opened The Durango Grill (1007 N. Old World Third St., 414-333-8653) on the last night of 2009. The restaurant’s mantra is, “A Taste of the American West,” so you’re going to see barbecued ribs, brisket, chicken, pork, steak and chili (several kinds) on the menu. Gustavson says the barbecue offered here is a hybrid. The brisket is done Texas-style; pork shoulder in the Memphis (rub) style. The kitchen is in the hands of Andy Jepsen, a man with more than two decades of ’cue-ing experience. On weekdays, the grill is open from 4 p.m.; on the weekends, from 11 a.m. But lunch hours are coming on weekdays. Imagine the block where the Old German Beer Hall and Buck Bradley’s are situated. This restaurant is just south of those businesses, on the same block.
• Russ Davis – who recently opened The Red Accordion in the old Vecchio Bar & Grille – took over the lease at Hubbard Park Lodge in Shorewood (3565 N. Morris Blvd., 414-332-4207). In a few weeks – Jan. 22, to be exact – Davis’ staff will serve its first fish fry at the lodge. It’ll be similar to the fry served at Lakefront Brewery Palm Garden (1872 N. Commerce St.), which he also runs. That is synonymous with a casual, affordable fry – $10.95. The staple Sunday brunch will also be a change from what Hubbard Park used to do. But details are still being worked out. The lodge will accept reservations, but walk-in business is just fine, too.
• The message on the answering machine at Byron’s Beer Garden – which morphed out of Yaffa Restaurant & Lounge (106 W. Wells St.) – indicates that while the restaurant is closed, it will reopen in January. We shall see.
A Very Old Town
Forty years. That’s a seriously long time for a restaurant to hold its own. I’m talking about Old Town Serbian Gourmet House, living in the shadow of St. Josaphat Basilica (522 W. Lincoln Ave., 414-672-0206). This year, Old Town is celebrating its 40th anniversary, and it’s doing it with food. First stop: the lounge. This month, the Radicevich family is offering a small-plate menu of traditional Serbian foods. If you order some of those specialties in the lounge, you’ll get a complimentary glass of Serbian wine or tea. Next stop: the dining room. The anniversary is like a kick in the pants to the kitchen. Check out these sandwich updates: schnitzel roll (breaded, pan-fried veal with creamy horseradish sauce), smoked sausage, and Beograd burger (mix of ground beef, veal, pork and lamb), $7.95-$9.95. On the dinner menu, the bureks – stuffed phyllo pastries – are now available in beef and cheese (not just spinach/cheese; beef; or plain cheese). Nothing like beef and cheese together. Also, if you were in the dark, Old Town started serving a Friday night fish fry last year. Beer-battered cod with European-style coleslaw and Russian potato salad or hand-cut fries ($9.95). Hours: L Tues-Fri 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. D Tues-Sun 5-10 p.m.
You Could Be Famous
The economy is down, burgers are up. Just about everything you need, food group-wise, can come in a burger. And anyone could conceivably lend his/her name to a burger. Stack’d Burger Bar is doing something special on a monthly basis. In addition to its regular burgers, Stack’d is doing a special menu promo. Two burgers will run monthly – one recipe generated by a staff member, the other submitted by a customer. And the Burgers du Month for January are… Cole chicken bleu (fried chicken tenders, blue cheese, coleslaw, pickles and spicy ranch on a pretzel roll) and Vive La Mexico! (grass-fed beef patty, chorizo, Pepper Jack cheese, jalapeños, avocado and cilantro). Do you have a burger recipe to submit for a future month? Send e-mail to maurice@stackedbar.com. If they choose yours, you’ll get a meal in return – a burger made from your winning recipe, plus a side and shake (170 S. First St., 414-273-7800).
Chili in Mili-waukee
My coworker Evan is talking meatloaf, but I think it’s a chili kind of day. A little heat to wake up the whole body. It’s also a good time to consider registration. The 2010 Milwaukee Chili Bowl isn’t held until the end of the month (Sun, Jan. 31), but past years the tickets have sold out in a flash. A little background: Twenty-five area restaurants will compete for greatness status in four chili categories – original, vegetarian, spiciest and “unique.” One restaurant will be awarded the coveted “Golden Ladle” title. Location is the Harley-Davidson Museum (400 W. Canal St.). Advance tickets are $10 (versus $12 at the door). Jan. 31, 1-4 p.m. Click here to order.
Don’t miss this week’s Shopaholic to learn about new stores and events in the world of local retail.
If you spot any restaurant openings or closings out there, don’t hesitate to post it on my column, or e-mail me directly: ann.christenson@milwaukeemagazine.com
