
Back to Italian
Sometimes transitions happen so slowly, you hardly notice them. Tony Mandella – whose name was often in the pages of Milwaukee Magazine in the 1990s when he ran the East Side’s Vinifera at the Passegio, followed by the North Shore’s Cafe Siciliano – took over Tosa’s Venturi’s Market & Catering a year ago. Mandella kept the Venturi’s name some time after that, but eventually transitioned to Fattoni’s Deli & Catering, now reflected on the sign. He’s kept the Venturi’s classics – the pizza, bow-tie pasta and chicken salads, and the cookies. From Mandella’s cooking stash, you’re going to find meatballs, Italian beef, pulled pork and daily entrée specials like shepherd’s pie, chicken strudel, pork tenderloin Milanese, and stuffed meatloaf Italiano. On Saturdays this month, he’s offering hand-carved, slow-roasted beef brisket. Sundays, it’s hot ham and rolls, and homemade cinnamon rolls. You know when I’m posting this column? Right before dinner. I’m dying of hunger here. Hours: Tues-Fri 10 a.m.-7 p.m.; Sat 9 a.m.-4 p.m.; Sun 9 a.m.-1 p.m. (7212 W. North Ave., 414-479-9840)
Fun With Firkin
Firkin. Impress your friends with your beer vocabulary. A firkin is a cask containing cast-conditioned ale. If a beer is cast-conditioned, that means it’s been put inside the firkin before the fermentation is completed. As the beer continues to ferment inside the firkin, it gives off a gas that produces carbonation. (The standard practice for producing carbonation in bottled or kegged beer is to add carbon dioxide or nitrogen.) I’m not trying to write a beer column – I’ve leave that to Dan Murphy in Brew City – but I bring up this firkin thing because Adam Lucks and his staff at Bay View’s Honeypie are doing a new monthly event called Firkin Night. It’ll be on the third Thursday of each month starting next week – Jan. 19. The idea is to bring in firkins of special beers for a tasting and for implementation in the cuisine. For the diner, it’s pretty informal – come in any time after 6 p.m. and order a beer and a few of the special menu items. On the 19th, Honeypie will spotlight a beer from Lakefront Brewery’s “My Turn” series – Dan Baltic Porter. So far, Lucks’ plans for that night are to offer homemade pretzels with sharp cheddar and Baltic porter beer cheese, a house-smoked brisket sandwich, and a Milwaukee Mud Pie made with the featured beer. (2643 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., 414-489-7437)
Belmont to Mason – and Back Again
The upcoming An Evening Out on the Town dinner (Jan. 18) is a mobile affair. It starts (at 6 p.m.) with appetizers and a Champagne toast at the Belmont Tavern (784 N. Jefferson St.). After roughly a half-hour, you will make the half-block walk to Mason Street Grill (Pfister Hotel, corner of Mason and Jefferson) for the 6:30 p.m. dinner. At approximately 8:15 p.m., you will stand, shake out your legs and walk back to the Belmont for a brief performance by pianist Joe Hite. Mason Street Grill executive chef Mark Weber has concocted the three-course menu – a chopped or Caesar salad for the first course; choice of filet mignon, NY strip, orange/basil-glazed salmon, or Amish roasted chicken for the second course; and a dessert medley by pastry chef Jennifer Carlson. Cost: $65 per person. Again, Jan 18 (Wednesday). Make your reservation soon: 414-298-3131.
Look for Dish on Dining on Tuesdays and Thursdays!
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If you spot a restaurant opening or closing, post it on the comments section of my column, or e-mail me directly: ann.christenson@milwaukeemagazine.com
