I have to admit, when news broke that the Italian restaurant Libiamo was shuttering back in 2012, I was a little disappointed. I never heard much about the food, but Libiamo was housed in the historic Brown Bottle, and I had never bent an elbow at the historic bar that dates back to 1938, when it was the final stop on Schlitz Brewery tours.
That changed with news that Gary Grunau and his cohorts at Schlitz Park were renovating the Bottle (221 W. Galena St.) and bringing in former Bacchus chef Ben Hudson to create a menu that strikes a balance between the historical, almost old-world feel many associate with the Brown Bottle and more modern-day trends.
So the ornate antler chandeliers still hang. Deep, dark wood dominates the lower-level space and breweriana from “The Beer That Made Milwaukee Famous” are easy to spot. It really is a step back in time … until you get a glance of the menu.
Hudson has taken great pains to ensure that old-timers who have fond recollection of the Bottle won’t be turned off by a menu that chases the latest fads. It’s pub fare to be sure, but Hudson puts his own stamp on items like the kimchi Reuben, the highlight of a recent sneak preview. Flatbreads, like a baked brie and apricot combo, might also be seen as a step out of some bar-food comfort zones, but it’s not a misstep here. And I’ll gladly be back to get another spoonful of the sundae “Old Fashioned,” which uses Purple Door ice cream to create a creamy replica of the Badger State’s favorite cocktail.
Beginning Nov. 17, the Brown Bottle will be open Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., with expanded dinner and weekend hours arriving Dec. 1. Come summer, the greenspace that was created as a result of the demolished brewhouse will serve as a beer garden, providing possibly the perfect backdrop to enjoy the Brown Bottle’s $2 Schlitz.
