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Once, twice, three times the sushi.

1) Kawa Sushi

The second location of Kawa Sushi (2321 N. Murray Ave., 414-800-7979) is hipper and more noodly than its North Shore sister. Raw and cooked Japanese dishes get equal play, including four kinds of ramen.

The tempura (apps start at $5) is light and crisp, the gyoza al dente ($5), with a deliciously salty dipping
sauce. Like it raw? Order the 19-piece sashimi deluxe with rice ($24). Mmm.

2) Hungry Sumo

Hunker down at the sushi bar inside Hungry Sumo (2663 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., 414-595-9656), nod hello to the sushi chefs and get down to some raw business. Sumo’s food artists, led by co-owner Thitichai “Jif” Rukchon, make a variety of maki, classic and contemporary.

You can’t go wrong with a simple spicy tuna maki ($6.95), but there are some dynamite fancy maki, such as Black Tokyo (with black rice, spicy shrimp and jalapeno topped with super-white tuna, $14.95) and Very Crunchy ($11.95), a deep-fried whole roll with shrimp tempura, cream cheese, crab and avocado).

3) Sushi Go!

In a tiny strip mall co-occupied by Starbucks, Sushi Go! (2110 E. Oklahoma Ave., 414-333-5565) specializes in the trend-setting sushi burrito – or sushirrito! All that separates the burrito from a seaweed nori roll is its larger size and shape.

Sushi Go, which started as a food truck in 2015, has expanded its truck operation to sunny digs offering happy-hour mini sushi burritos, two kinds of ramen (plus a daily ramen special) and a full drink menu. You’ll need no additional sides when you order this wrap.

Props also to the flavorful, filling Tuna-Geddon ($14), whose plentiful, fresh yellowtail and ahi tuna go smashingly with cucumber, avocado, green onion, rice, tobiko and soy-wasabi glaze. ◆

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Tips for Going Raw:

  • Sushi was created as finger food. Feel free to ditch the chopsticks and eat using your hands.
  • Mixing wasabi with soy sauce is considered poor form in Japan. Try dabbing wasabi directly on the fish.
  • Open wide! Each piece of sushi is meant to be eaten in one bite.

‘Suddenly Sushi’ appears in the February 2018 issue of Milwaukee Magazine.

Find it on newsstands beginning January 29, or buy a copy at milwaukeemag.com/shop.

Be the first to get every new issue. Subscribe.

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