Somewhere along the way, the essence of a beloved brand was lost.
Pizza Man – the pizzeria that began on the East Side corner of North and Oakland in 1970, becoming known for thin-crust pies, wild boar ravioli and an extensive wine selection – has had a difficult 15 years. After it was destroyed by arson in 2010, the brand was resurrected and moved to a different location, Downer Avenue, in 2013, where things seemingly were on the upswing. A second location opened at the Mayfair Collection in Tosa (and later in Oak Creek and Mequon, both now closed).
But the once-great Pizza Man had changed. I can’t pinpoint exactly when, but the pizza itself began to show a slip in quality. Founder Mike Amidzich, who after the fire had reopened with new investors, passed away in 2018. Staff changed, ownership changed. In 2023, the restaurant left Downer Avenue, relocating to a spot in Riverwest that lasted all of a year.
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New co-owner Krys Zielinski, whose restaurant group reopened the pizzeria in the previous Downer location in September, wants to bring it “back to what it used to be.” From a literal standpoint, that’s difficult, since the original recipes “were somehow lost over the years,” says Zielinski, a former partner in the Transfer Pizzeria restaurant group. Working off of Zielinski’s memory of the original – and the expertise of chef Miguel Mayoral, formerly of Zarletti Mequon – they rebuilt the menu, including 12-inch thin-crust pies, several apps and pastas and entrées like a $45 filet au poivre and $50 lamb chops. They also upgraded the restaurant interior, removing the rustic old booths and adding a fancy walled wine cellar. The redux is a work in progress.
After a mediocre first pizza experience in the reopened Downer location, the pies improved each of my following visits. With the Original Thin Crust (one of four styles), they’re aiming for a slender, cracker crust, but the results were mixed. The Topher ($21) still had that winsome combo of sweet, spicy and cream-cheesy, but the crust was brittle. The Special ($23) was better, the crust tender and the classic toppings of red sauce, sausage and pepperoni unbeatable. But too much onion! The best pie – with a spot-on, crisp golden crust – was one I made up, with prosciutto, fresh mozz and arugula. The starters were mixed, too: The fried brussels sprouts ($12) had the texture of burned paper, the bits of bacon leathery, but the crostini with burrata and prosciutto di Parma ($18) was a winner. Standout entrées were the shrimp scampi linguine ($25) and seared scallops ($33), which were tender and nicely caramelized on a well-made (that is, loose), savory risotto.
So while the pizza is inconsistent thus far, this reboot needs to succeed. Downer Avenue needs it to. That the brand is “an icon in Milwaukee was definitely very appealing to me,” says Zielinski. “I like challenges, and I think this is a great challenge.”
Pizza Man
2597 N. DOWNER AVE. | 414-488-9999
Hours: Tues-Sat 3-10 p.m.; Sun 3-9 p.m.
Prices: Starters $7-$18; salads $11-$13; pastas $21-$25; entrées $25-$50; pizzas $19-$23
service: Green but trying to be polished.
Reservations: Accepted
