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Point Burger Bar’s build-your-own concept leaves seemingly no topping stone unturned.

The skillet sizzles. Juice oozes out of the hand-formed beef patty lying on scorching aluminum. Saturday was Burger Night when I was growing up. The bun/patty union was the stabilizer in a cacophonous household.

When a burger place opens, people don’t question the arrival of more two-fisters. That would be like questioning the spread of French fries. The new Point Burger Bar – whose closest competition at its West Side location is a Ruby Tuesday – keeps the definition of a burger loose and lax. If it can be formed into a shape that accommodates a bun (or a lettuce roll, or just a fork), that’s burger enough.

The build-a-burger theme is no novelty, nor is having more choices for your tower of meat and starch than you know what to do with. This place offers a staggering range of choices in a setting best described as modern sports bar.

Point Burger Bar: 10950 W. Good Hope Rd., 414-797-2970. Hours: Lunch and dinner daily. Prices: Burgers $7.45-$17.95. Service: Eager but green. Reservations: Accepted for six or more.

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‘Fresh Meat’ appears in the February 2016 issue of Milwaukee Magazine.

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