Back in March of 2020, the owners of Milwaukee Street’s Third Coast Provisions were ready to launch their brick-and-mortar pizzeria, Flourchild. The pandemic had other ideas – but so did they.

Their pivot was a frozen version “with no bad ingredients, no seed oils, no preservatives, non-GMO,” co-owner Sam Emery says. But the pie’s real hook is its “naturally fermented” sourdough crust. That makes their Real Dough brand a unicorn even within the premium and niche pizza realm. (And it is on the higher end – $11-$14.) Flavors like Okie Dokie Artichokie, Peppin’ Ain’t Easy, The Wisco Kid and other Real Dough pies are stocked at Wisconsin stores such as Sendik’s, Woodman’s and Piggly Wiggly.

And more are coming, say the owners (who finally opened the Flourchild pizzeria in 2022). Real Dough, with its distinctive tang and crisp-chewy thickish crust, does stand out. For the best outcome, follow the baking instructions (letting the baked pie rest a few minutes before slicing it helps the crust stay crispy).

“The whole pizza industry, and really the food industry, is seeing a boom with natural products and things that are better for you. And it’s really hard to do it that way, because the [typical] frozen pizza is like a race to the bottom. If you’re eating a $5 pizza, you have to wonder, ‘What is in this?’” says Emery. The Real Dough dudes are trying to eliminate the wondering.  

“Competition is good because it keeps you on your A game, bringing more attention to our city. So it’s a good thing.” 

– Chef Adam Siegel, on the new crop of Downtown elevated dining spots. Siegel is set to open his second restaurant, Il Ponte, later this year.

Looking into the Tofuture

Simple Soyman has been Milwaukee’s source for handmade, high-quality tofu and tempeh products since 1983 – long enough that some fans took for granted that the business would always be around. But when founders RJ and Barbara Gruenwald started the process of retiring a few years ago, locals relying on them were starting to lose sleep.

“We had gotten kind of spoiled,” says Jim Neumeyer, a former owner of Beans & Barley who has spent much of his career cooking and eating Simple Soyman tofu. Neumeyer didn’t let it go. Literally the day after Beans shut down earlier this year, he and his wife, Olive Crane, bought Simple Soyman.

Neumeyer is now enmeshed in the very physical process of turning soybeans into bean curd. Fortunately, he’s got three of the company’s original production staff back on the payroll, plus the Gruenwalds on speed dial for support. Soyman products are sold at Outpost and used in restaurants like Cloud Red and Comet Cafe. Neumeyer hopes to also get into commercially packaged dips, spreads and sauces – maybe even Beans & Barley’s beloved tofu scramble.

Centro Cafe, the cozy Riverwest Italian restaurant (808 E. Center St.), abruptly ended its 17-year run in April, though its adjacent sibling, Bar Centro, lives on.  •  Ruta’s Fresh Indian Fare dropped some bad news in April – that they were moving out of 207 W. Freshwater Way in Walker’s Point. Within weeks, the business announced its new digs: 7629 W. Greenfield Ave., West Allis (most recently an Ethiopian coffee shop).  •  In April, JoSa on the River brought dining back to 106 W. Wells St., previously Port of Call and Brunch. Dinner entrées range from ribeye with garlic mashed potatoes to lamb chops with sticky rice.  • In May, the owners of Santino’s Little Italy in Bay View (352 E. Stewart St.) opened Calogero’s Italian cocktail lounge just two blocks away (338 E. Bay St.). Martinis, spritzes and a selection of small plates populate the menu.  •  On July 12, DanDan (360 E. Erie St.) will celebrate its 10th anniversary with a mini festival in its Third Ward parking lot. The shindig will feature local food vendors, live music, merch and more.