The former home of Trocadero (1758 N. Water St.) is back in action. DiModa Pizza & Hotspot – sister restaurant of The Brass Alley and Red Rock Saloon, among others – has opened. The menu focus is “Roman-style” pizzas baked in a wood-burning oven, and modern Italian dishes, including pastas.
Starters range from grilled octopus giardiniera to a Wisco cheese curd melt (open-face fried cheese curd crostini with guanciale and tomato dip), $8-$13. There are sandwiches (chicken parm, meatball sub, $10-$13) and entrées like cider-brined grilled pork chops ($18). Pastas include kitchen Bolognese, short rib pasta rolls and Sardinian-style shrimp fregola, $12-$28.
The 13-inch pizzas are specialized, such as the Devil’s Own, with giardiniera, smoked provolone, sweet and Calabrian peppers and nduja made by Underground Meats, $14. And customized – build your own pie from a list of toppings.
The restaurant is friendly to both the gluten-intolerant (there’s a special menu) and the dog lover (also a menu for pups, I kid you not).
Parent company Wild Planet Hospitality bought the property in 2014 from Lowlands Group (which runs the various Cafe Hollanders) and continued to operate Trocadero until January 2017. The old Troc trickles into the brunch menu in the form of house-made beignets and the Frenchie bloody mary.
Hours: Mon-Fri 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sat-Sun 9 a.m.-11 p.m. (414-331-0020)