One thing Central Standard’s new Crafthouse & Kitchen (320 E. Clybourn Ave., 414-455-8870) does not lack is ambiance. Besides a rooftop bar, a distillery and a private event room, this impressive 11,700-square-foot facility also feeds its visitors inside a sleek dining room with exposed brick and beams, warm light and lovely plateware. It, in short, sets one’s dining expectations high.
I just wish it met them. At a late-summer meal, I delved deep into the concise menu of snacks, soups and salads, and larger plates ($8-$46), beginning with a crab dip served with crackers ($18) that was creamy and rich but pricey for its size. That set the tone for the rest of my order – underwhelming and overpriced.
The best of the lot was an aged rib eye ($46), which was tender and meaty, though the potato served with it was undercooked. The biggest disappointment was the heirloom tomato salad ($13) – four little slices of tomato sprinkled with a bit of ricotta salata and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. I’ve had bite-sized hors d’oeuvres that were more substantial.
I hate seeing restaurants with so much potential deliver so little. If the kitchen continues in that direction, I’d recommend visitors come for a drink but dine elsewhere.
This story is part of Milwaukee Magazine‘s November issue.
Find it on newsstands or buy a copy at milwaukeemag.com/shop
Be the first to get every new issue. Subscribe.
ENTER OUR HOME & DESIGN AWARDS
We want to see your best work. Architects, interior designers, renovation experts and landscapers: Enter your residential projects in Milwaukee Magazine’s new design competition.