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A lesson in ordering Indian at a new Tosa restaurant.

The server hustles the dishes away from the table, the leftovers heading to carryout containers. Before he walks away, he looks at me, “Does this mean you won’t be back this weekend?” I laugh: “Not until these leftovers are gone.”

A meal at India Garden should be ordered like you’re at a wedding banquet. Because this is one Taj Mahal of a menu. And that meal should incorporate some Bombay street snacks like paani puri (a hollow, oval-shaped fried crisp that melts in your mouth), a biryani made with hard-boiled eggs, a goat curry (bones included, but they’re maneuverable), and chicken tikka uttapam – a pancake filled with tandoori chicken, served with chutneys and a vegetable sambar, or soup. Your table will be flecked with variety – plenty to carry home if your eyes are bigger than your stomach. Which is a wonderful position to be in here.

[mark]India Garden Restaurant:[/mark] 2930 N. 117th St. (Burleigh and 117th), Wauwatosa, 414-235-9220. Hours: Daily lunch buffet: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. D: Sun-Thurs 5-10 p.m.; Fri-Sat 5-10:30 p.m. Prices: Appetizers $2-$8.95; soups, breads, snacks $1.95-$7.95; entrées, rice dishes, noodles, uttapams $9-$27.95. Service: A little spotty. Dress: Whatever you like. Handicap Access: Yes. Reservations: Accepted.

‘A Peek-a at Tikka’ appears in the May, 2015, issue of Milwaukee Magazine.
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