With additional reviews by John Koethe, Evan Solochek and Alex Vagelatos
Glorioso” is Italian for “Glorious.” It’s the word that comes to mind at the storied Brady Street Italian grocer. Glorious. It’s sweet to find a deli counter where there’s still a bell. “Ring for service,” the note with it reads. Not that I’ve ever had to. It’s like the counter guy, hands wound through links of Italian sausage, has eyes in the back of his head. He turns at the precise moment I see the bell. Next thing I know, I’m holding a plastic bag folded snugly over a warm meatball sandwich. Heaven in an Italian sub roll.
Now that’s lunch. No, that’s a great lunch.
