I’m feeling the Texas ’cue vibe. Cowboy boots decorate the mantel on top of the fireplace. Rope is used as a baseboard in the dining room. Our table is “branded” with an “S” for the name of this joint, and it’s a mouthful: Silver Spur Texas Smokehouse BBQ.
Once upon a time… well, a few years ago, the Spur was doing its thing at 199th and Greenfield. If you were within a mile of that building, your nose would know. A 2008 fire destroyed the location, but not the determination of the owners, who took advantage of the Elm Grove Inn’s closing last year. By moving into its new digs (opened last April), the Spur stepped out of the classic French dress of the building’s previous incarnation and into a comfortable pair of jeans.
Along with the barbecue – St. Louis ribs cooked low and slow, pulled pork, brisket, chicken – the menu sidesteps into Tex-Mex, chili and fajitas territory. And there’s all-around American stuff like hot wings, burgers and steaks. But when you notice the smoker out back by the parking lot, there’s no question what you order – meat and lots of it. In the anthology of barbecuing, styles of cooking and saucing vary. The Texas style is to cook the meat without sauce. Tomatoey and ever-so-slightly spicy, the sauce comes on the side.
Here, when the meats arrive loaded on the plate, the setting suddenly transforms to a picnic table under a glorious summer sky. The barbecue is pretty good, but showed a few weaknesses. We dive into the combo of four meats with two sides ($17.95). The Juicy Q (pulled pork smothered in sauce) certainly lives up to “juicy,” though I’d hoped for a shredded pulled-pork texture – not the fine grind of this meat. Slow-smoked brisket is hard not to love, unless it’s dry, and this meat is a tad too parched. The ribs are infused with a delectable smoked flavor, but could be moister. Of the sides, best is the coleslaw, not too creamy and seasoned with just enough celery seed.
It’s great to see Silver Spur back in the saddle – in an area that can support more casual, midpriced dining. And like a lot of places, distinction doesn’t come in the first months of business.
Silver Spur Texas Smokehouse BBQ, 13275 Watertown Plank Rd., Elm Grove, 262-821-1511. Hours: Mon-Sat 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Prices: appetizers $4.95-$11.95; salads $7.95-$9.50; soups/sandwiches $3.95-$9.50; entrées $8.95-$22.95. Service: quick, friendly. Dress: something you wouldn’t mind getting some sauce on. Credit cards: M V A DS. Smoke-free. Handicap access: steps to entrance; call first for assistance. Reservations: accepted.
