Down and Out
Sad casualty of the week: Wild Earth, the youngest restaurant at Potawatomi Bingo Casino, will serve its last braised short ribs and sautéed duck breast on January 31st (1721 W. Canal St., 414-847-7626). It was only two months ago that I reviewed it – November 2008 issue. What I’m curious to see is where talented chef Audrey Vandenburgh, formerly a sous chef at Lake Park Bistro, will end up.… While this has been reported by other media, it may have passed under your radar that J. Roberts Porterhouse is a goner. J. Roberts? Yeah, it was a shortlived operation that replaced the Porterhouse Restaurant (800 W. Layton Ave.). Tony Arenas, whose family operated the Porterhouse, says they sold the restaurant on a land contract, but have since had to foreclose and put the business up for sale. The Arenases, by the way, operate the successful Hartland restaurant Palmer’s Steak House (122 E. Capitol Dr., 262-369-3939).
Chill With Chili
There are alternatives, on a Sunday afternoon, to sitting in front of the tube watching sports. It’s hard to believe, but it’s true. Me, I’d rather eat chili. You can, too, at Milwaukee’s Largest Chili Cookoff. Twenty-some restaurants will be sweating it out to win the coveted award of “Golden Ladle.” They will compete in four categories – original, spiciest, vegetarian and “unique.” If you’re up for eating more chili in one afternoon than you ever have in your whole life, check it out. Restaurants in this feat of chili prowess include Benji’s (meat chili), Balzac, Carleton Grange, Fuel Cafe, Karma (white bean chili and fiery habanero strip steak chili) and Tenuta’s (Italian sausage chili). The cookoff is a benefit for America’s Second Harvest of Wisconsin. Location: Serb Memorial Hall, 5101 W. Oklahoma Ave. January 25th, 1-5 p.m. Tickets: $12 at the door.
Winter Comfort
What’s a Dish on Dining column without a look at a new menu? It’s full-blown winter, and next week – Wednesday, to be exact – Meritage owner Jan Kelly will debut her winter menu to the masses (5921 W. Vliet St., 414-479-0620). Why do I write this column when I’m hungry? It’s sheer torture. I will have to wait until January 28th to try Kelly’s roasted beet salad with goat cheese “firecrackers” and orange marmalade vinaigrette, and her dim sum pork buns with pickled vegetable salad. That also goes for the chickpea fries with harissa aïoli, and the fattoush salad that includes homemade falafel, pita chips, cucumber, tomato and feta on a bed of tabouli salad. New entrées include a pork tenderloin with Szechuan peppercorn crust, pork pot stickers and braised cabbage; flat-iron steak with BLT sauce; and bison pot roast, German style. Now that sounds like fun.
Another Fry
If you’ve seen our February issue, you know you could be eating fish fries every Friday from now until the end of time. And here’s another one: Tess’ panko-breaded lake perch. The fish fry makes its first appearance this year on January 23rd, which is this Friday. The perch comes with sweet potato fries, crunchy Asian-style coleslaw, buttered marble rye bread, homemade ketchup and tartar sauce. They can all be yours for $14 even. Hours are 5-11 p.m. (2499 N. Bartlett Ave., 414-964-8377)
Can’t get enough dining? I chat about restaurants every week with Jane Matenaer and Kidd O’Shea on “The Mix.” Listen at 6:10 a.m. – a new time! – on Friday, January 23rd. That’s 99.1 WMYX-FM.
