“Women are wiser than men because they know less and understand more,” James Stephens, 1882-1950, The Crock of Gold, 1912.
In the mid-1980s, I was visiting friends in Seattle and exploring its pleasures (Starbucks was the new Wunderkind kid on the block then). At one point, I spent some time with a wine industry insider and listened, spellbound, as he laid out his view of Washington wineries. At that point, he felt Washington’s industry was in the midst of a Northwestern Gold Rush, not terribly unlike what the Napa Valley went through 20 years previously. As our conversation ensued, I asked him for some names of cutting-edge operations in the state. The one he readily proffered was Hogue, new to me, so I hustled around downtown Seattle to grab a bottle from an enlightened wine shop. What I found was a revelation to me. I was used to tasting emphatic and fruit-forward Rieslings from California, and I found this to be far more flowery and elegant – almost closer to the beauties from Germany’s wine river valleys that I used to teach about in my classes at Upstate New York’s Cornell University. My pleasant memory of Hogue lingered until I stumbled upon it at Sendik’s in Mequon years later (I believe the special price was $8.99, a price they occasionally trot out today). Constellation Brands (whom Gallo regards as a serious quality competitor and contender) bought Hogue in 2006. I regard that as a great move.
Here are my notes of a recent tasting of this able winery’s wares using my normal subjective “A”-“F” grading scale:
1. Hogue 2009 Riesling, $9.99 (As previously mentioned, occasionally available at either $9.99 or $8.99 at Sendik’s on a promotional basis). Barely off-white with medium body. The nose strutted sharp notes of ripe apricot. In the mouth, elegant fruit flavors danced with bright acidity into a clean finish. Excellent summer patio wine, or try it with light barbecue or grilled chicken or salmon. A
2. Hogue 2010 Late Larvest Riesling, $9.99. Straw yellow tint with heavy, almost cloying body. Peaches and flowers on the nose with tremendous depth. The round, full middle on the palate displayed great fruity depth. A fair amount of residual sugar on the finish with a dash of acidity suggests a marriage with a Tarte Tatin, apple pie or, for the more daring, foie gras! A+
3. Hogue 2006 Merlot, Wahluke Reserve, $29.99. Dark, rich ruby robe. Medium-to-heavy body. The nose presented hedonistic notes of berries, rich chocolate and coffee – far more intense than many Merlots. A class act. A
4. Hogue 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, $10.99. Bright red hue with medium body. Brilliant notes of cherry, chocolate and berries on the nose. In the mouth, it proudly displayed ebullient fruit, easing into an elegant, long finish. A-
5. Hogue Meritage, 2007, $15.99. At first glance, a very fair price. Dark, almost inky red with a brooding body. Its intense, multilayered nose subtly bragged of sophisticated yet restrained blending. With its great depth and almost sweet intensity, I found the intermingling notes to be nearly symphonic. Smooth, elegant finish that begged for more. A
Today’s winner was the Late Harvest Riesling, followed closely by the impressive Meritage.
I readily awarded the Price/Value crown to the Riesling, especially at its $8.99 promotion price at Sendik’s in Mequon.
Hogue is truly a class act. I heartily recommend seeking it out and snagging it!
