“How much better is thy love than wine!” Holy Bible, Ecclesiastes – Song of Soloman
Head north on Cedarburg Road/Washington Avenue through the beguiling hamlet of Cedarburg, past the fun and upbeat Boulangerie and you’ll end up at the Historic Cedar Creek Settlement just north of town. You’ll encounter a clutch of charming shops ensconced in the circa-1860s limestone woolen mill along the idyllic Cedar Creek. There, nestled betwixt the Cream and Crepe Cafe and the fascinatingly fun Anvil Restaurant, you’ll discover the Cedar Creek Winery – tasting room and all.
Steve Danner is the quietly competent general manager of the winery, which is owned by Philippe and Julie Coquard at the Wollersheim Winery in Prarie Du Sac, Wis. (I’ll be reviewing their wines shortly.) Steve makes, ages and bottles his own Chardonnay on site; other wines carrying his label are either made entirely by him (no bare feet for this fella) or are made by Wollersheim with grapes and juice sourced in Washington State and the Finger Lakes region in New York State (where your humble columnist attended college, sampled wines ad nauseum and taught a wine course). His wines are sold at sundry retailers in Milwaukee, including Pick & Save, Discount Liquor, Otto’s, PDQ, Sendik’s and Sentry. Look for more coverage as his reputation blossoms.
Tasting through Cedar Creek’s wines recently, I reviewed them using my typical “A”-“F” grading scale, and I was wonderfully surprised:
1. Waterfall Riesling, Washington State, $9: Pale, almost white color, with light body, followed by a nose redolent of summer flowers and peaches. Elegant and lightly fruity with a trace of balancing acid. Fabulous with cheese or as a fun summer sipper on the patio with good friends! A+
2. Pinot Grigio, Washington State, $10: Pale straw color, with a light, elegantly flowery nose. Lightly fruity middle with faint acid and a clean, balanced, dry finish. I preferred it to its Italian counterpart. A
3. Vidal, New York State, $8.50: Pale yellow colour (just testing you, you American renegades). Medium body, with a subtly fruity and slightly dusty nose. Lightly fruity middle with subtle acidity, a whisper of sweetness and a clean finish. Great with cheese (especially goat), or with grilled chicken – or even with friends on a balmy night. A-
4. Syrah, 2008, Washington, bottled here, $15: Deep purple, brooding hue with heavy body. With a ponderous nose of black cherries, this beauty thundered into a long, coffee-laden finish with notes of chocolate. It yells, “Steak!” and “I’m no wimp!” A-
If you’d care to visit the winery’s website, it tidily lists upcoming events in Cedarburg. Regardless, this jewel is worth a trip.
