
There are three classes of intellects: one which comprehends by itself; another which appreciates what others comprehend; and a third which neither comprehends by itself nor by the showing of others; the first is most excellent, the second is good, and the third is useless,” Nicolo Machiavelli, The Prince
In Part I, I laid out my experience with the Robert Mondavi Winery and practically gushed with excitement (my goblet runneth over) with praise for the innovative accomplishments of founder and father, Robert, marketing-oriented son Michael and winemaking son Tim, who mothered over the winery’s oak for over 20 years.
Mondavi grew almost explosively through innovation and steadily improving quality until it was sold to Constellation Brands in 2004 (some rumored that the winery fetched a price north of $1 billion dollars). Constellation applied its core strength of marketing know-how to Mondavi’s core quality, and the rest is pleasant history.
During Part I, I tasted through Mondavi’s Chardonnay and better Cabernet Sauvignon, giving both candidates high marks. In Part II, I gleefully approached the winery’s Pinot Noir and Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, which was priced more reasonably than last week’s wonderful winner. Here are my tasting notes on winemaker Genevieve Janssens’ wines:
1) Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir, 2010, Carneros, $27. Note: This blend is a combination of cool-climate Carneros Pinot Noir grapes in concert with a small amount of prized Russian River produce. After I noted its deeply pleasant red color, I delved into its heady, deep nose with complex notes of bright cherry, plum and blueberry, with subtle background hints of leather (very much characteristic of the grapes’ birth places). Nicely intense in the mouth, with similarly deep and fruity persistence. Immeasurably improved with air “hang time.” Long, persistent finish. A
2) Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon, 2009, Napa, $28. Note: 31 percent of this solid, innovative blend came from Mondavi’s famed Oakville T Kalon Vineyard, as opposed to 93 percent in their Oakville District Cabernet Sauvignon, to which I easily handed an A+ rating. The balance of this blend, as a polite and deferential nod to the great wines of Bordeaux, France, was composed of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Petite Verdot and Malbec. I loved the deep ruby, almost purple color of this wine, along with its attendant heavy body and lovely clarity (Washington – are you listening?). The nose was deeply complex and profoundly, joyously comforting as I witnessed an elegant dance of nicely married fruit, easing into a long, pleasing finish. A+
Today’s winner was the Cabernet Sauvignon which, like last week’s sister, was truly marvelous.
I’d easily assign a “Rocking Chair Award” to the Pinot Noir on the basis of its simple California elegance.
Cheers to you, Robert Mondavi! You’ve got a brilliant future, indeed!
