Dining at Safina feels personal. Giovanni Safina, family patriarch and founder of the late Giovanni’s, buzzes around the dining room. I have a vague recollection of being at that illustrious restaurant many years ago, before it closed in 2007, eating fried eggplant while Giovanni kept an eye on the dining room. Here, he is an unassuming presence out on the floor – weaving in between tables to greet or check on the meal.
But this isn’t just his show. It’s a family affair. Sons Giuseppe (“Joe”), Sal and David complete the circle. And they are killing it, these first several months in business. On two visits – the tiny dining room filled to its brim – the food is for the most part impressive. The waitstaff gets it, delivering these specialties as if they were antiques with provenance. As they pour Sicilian olive oil into a pinch bowl, serving it with warm bread, they mention the Giovanni’s relics that are back – the fried eggplant strips, the baked mozzarella, the Strauss veal ribeye, et al. They’ve had years to perfect these recipes, and bringing it all back to life seems like muscle memory. And Dad is helping that along. “He’s in the kitchen right now,” says Giuseppe. “He’s our butcher.”
It’s time to pick your Milwaukee favorites for the year!
The only dish I’ve ordered that I wouldn’t again is the arrostito – Sicilian roasted cauliflower, broccoli and charred sweet peppers ($12) – because it’s the one thing that I’d want to season liberally. The melanzana fritte (fried eggplant, $11) is soft-crispy, more eggplant than breading and served with a very good marinara sauce. The baked mozzarella – deep-fried balls of breaded cheese ($11) – are decadent, but not overly so; the San Marzano tomato sauce adds the right touch of sweet acidity. I don’t remember the last time I had beef carpaccio – wafer-thin sliced raw meat with capers, pickled onion, arugula and lemon oil ($19) – but I want more of this meat that melts on the tongue.
When I turn to the pastas, it’s first to a classic Sicilian creation – busiate (long, thin macaroni) with Trapanese pesto and firm broiled shrimp ($25). It’s light and fresh – so summery. Another, halibut scottato with caper butter and sun-dried tomato over linguine ($42), makes the creamy, dense fish the star. Of other mains, Gio’s filet stuffed with provolone and prosciutto ($44) is fork-tender and savory. And the lightly breaded chicken Vesuvio ($28) is a bit like piccata, with a luscious lemon-white wine sauce, roasted fingerlings and plump peas.
I love having the Safinas cooking Sicilian again. But one thing bothers me: the noise level. This small dining room inside a stately 1858 brick building is all hard surfaces. There’s no simple solution, design-wise – not without changing the aesthetic. But it may turn some diners off.
Safina, on my list of most anticipated spots for 2023, should make Giovanni proud. Service was good, though Giuseppe told me that’s a work in progress. If you want a well-executed meal capturing the old Giovanni’s magic in a lively – well, loud – dining room, you’ll find it in Safina.
Safina
785 N. JEFFERSON ST. | 414-488-9578
Hours: Wed-Thurs 4:30-9:30 p.m.; Fri-Sat 4:30 a.m.-10 p.m.
Prices: Entrées $25-$60
Service: Friendly, attentive
Reservations: Essential
