I Tried It: Alphonso’s Pickle Pizza 

Alphonso’s the Original is exactly that. Locally known for offering comically big “Lightning Rod” mozzarella sticks, the West Allis pizzeria (9130 W. Greenfield Ave.) introduced an unusual signature pie in 2022 called the Dillorean, whose toppings include dill pickles, ranch dressing and fresh dill sprigs. The combo sounds like a kooky publicity stunt and yet it’s had staying power. Why? Answering that became a mission. When I arrived at Alphonso’s for pickup, they were finishing up my order. “Have you ever had this?” the clerk asked me. “First-timer here,” I replied. “Ohhh, look at this,” she said, proudly popping open the box. It was beautiful – a perfect circle of smooth melted mozzarella dotted with pickle slices and fern-like fronds of dill. Moreover, the herbed aroma was my passenger on the drive home. The flavors were a surprise to me – I expected heavily briny, with loud microphonic dill. But those flavors were very much mellowed by the cheese (a lot of mozzarella!) and ranch. The crispy cracker crust held up well, too. Despite being a pickle lover, I was prepared for overkill. But this was a well-balanced pie, one I’d eat again. 12-inch, $16.

Author/filmmaker Ron Faiola is back in the land of relish trays with an expanded Wisconsin Supper Clubs book. The new edition includes revisits of clubs from his original 2013 guide, along with 15 newbies that have opened since then. Three cheers for shrimp DeJonghe!

Carbon Dating

In December, Milwaukee Street, known as Restaurant Row, welcomed a new high-end steakhouse – right across the street from Carnevor, SURG Restaurant Group’s upscale beef emporium. Carbon Steak (725 N. Milwaukee St.), which is part of a new restaurant group created by the owner of Maharaja Indian restaurant, serves USDA prime cuts, Wagyu beef and seafood. The chefs have backgrounds working at established steakhouses like Flemings, Carson’s and Chicago’s Mastro’s. And the design partner on the storefront space – which had most recently been used as a banquet hall – is Kahler Slater. Reflecting current trends, they are also putting attention on their vegetarian/vegan menu choices and nonalcoholic drink options. Look for a review in the coming months. 

Mike Eitel (of The Nomad bar fame) is offering 11 kinds of grilled burritos at surf-themed Barrel Burrito Co. (782 N. Jefferson St.)  •  Known for res-only, prix fixe dining, Ardent Restaurant (1751 N. Farwell Ave.) now also offers more casual, a la carte fare – walk-ins welcome – in its bar-lounge, formerly Red Light Ramen  •  After 50 years in business, Lopez Bakery (1100 W. Historic Mitchell St.) – known for its range of Mexican baked goods – announced plans to close, citing “challenging economic times” in a Facebook post. • Planted Vibes, a new, healthy food concept from the owners of vegan-based Twisted Plants, has replaced Funky Fresh Spring Rolls at Sherman Phoenix Marketplace (3536 W. Fond du Lac Ave.). Funky has transitioned to a fully wholesale operation.