Nohemí Chávez’s Santo y Sombra: The Prelude, a fashion showcase held Friday, June 27, at Arts @ Large MKE, was a powerful and symbolic retelling of Mexico’s colonial history. The presentation explored the erasure of identity under colonial rule and the lasting emotional impact on affected communities. Through dynamic, elegant garments, intimate dance and performance and rich symbolism, Chávez offered a brief but striking glimpse into a larger narrative – one that delves into Mexico’s past and the enduring effects of colonialism and capitalism.
Over the past several months, Chávez has served as the artist-in-residence at Arts @ Large, a position that gave her the space and resources to develop the stories she hopes to express through fashion design. Friday’s show marked the close of her residency – but the beginning of a new chapter as a designer. The performance offered a preview of the world she plans to continue building through her brand, Moda Libre. Its inaugural collection – set to launch in August – will carry forward the story introduced in The Prelude.
It’s time to pick your Milwaukee favorites for the year!
Unlike a traditional runway show, this presentation leaned more into theater, featuring four models who embodied metaphorical representations of the often-overlooked damage of colonialism on Indigenous populations.
“Santo y Sombra follows the evolution of Xochiquetzal – the Aztec goddess symbolizing beauty, fertility, and sacred feminine energy – from an unrestrained spirit rooted in Indigenous Mexico to a figure shaped by love, betrayal, colonization, and ultimately, revolution and rebirth,” Chávez explained. “Each look marks a chapter of transformation: loss of innocence, sacrifice and finally, a renewal that fuses beauty and strength, reminding us that our scars can become our armor.”
With vibrant colors, heavy pleating, dramatic gathers and exaggerated silhouettes, the garments alone powerfully conveyed the story being told. The models used choreography to draw the audience into the narrative and props to immerse viewers in the emotional drama. It was a story that I – and many others in the audience – could deeply relate to. Coming from diverse backgrounds, we’ve seen how colonialism and capitalism have left indelible marks on our communities.
It’s crucial to foster open conversations about the legacies they’ve left behind—the painful and the powerful alike. And Chávez, with the support of Arts @ Large, was able to communicate these ideas with eloquence and strength.
Chávez’s residency began with an exhibition of the same name, exploring themes of “lineage and sacrifice, honor and power, embodying the spirit of intergenerational Mexican aesthetics” (Arts @ Large).
Her goal was not simply to create well-crafted garments, but to tell the complex story of her Mexican heritage and the generations of strife, resilience and passion that came before her.
Over the course of her time at Arts @ Large, Chávez took audiences – and herself – on a journey through this layered, intricate history. And this is only the beginning.
“Through my residency, I was given the time and space to experiment, get out of my comfort zone and, most of all, dream. It challenged me to think about visual presentation, production, and how cultivating a space could support the story I wanted to tell,” Chávez said.
What’s next:
The full collection and continuation of the story introduced in The Prelude will debut this August at Arts @ Large. The collection will include both womenswear and menswear and will explore Mexican history and generational aesthetics in greater depth.
For updates, news and casting calls, follow Nohemí on Instagram at @nohemibydesign and her brand page @modalibreofficial.
