The breakfast- or tea-time scone is the sweet (or savory) relative of the baking powder biscuit. It can be a bit drier than a biscuit, but should also be crumbly – crumbly and yet tender.

That’s a tricky result to achieve, which is why scones are too often a dry disappointment. But forever hopeful, I searched for the city’s best, sampling the specimens from five local bakeries.

The ranked results:

Stone Creek’s Mocha

Rich with chunks of dark chocolate, this is a tender but dense, dunkable dessert.
12 area locations

Miss Molly’s Lemon Rosemary

With a wonderful bumpy crust and echoes of sweetness, citrus and subtle herbs.
9201 W. Center St.

Batches Bakery’s Cheddar Scallion

These savory golden triangles offer subtle cheese-onion flavor and plenty of tenderness.
401 E. Erie St.

Rocket Baby Bakery’s Swiss, Sun-Dried Tomato and Basil

So much potential and a good marriage of cheese-herb flavor, but the layery texture is marred by overbaking.
6822 W. North Ave, Wauwatosa

Colectivo Coffee Roasters’ Raspberry

Topped with a dab of raspberry jam, these pretty squares are nevertheless too dry.
13 area locations

“Game of Scones” appears in the March 2019 issue of Milwaukee Magazine.

Find it on newsstands beginning Feb. 25, or buy a copy at milwaukeemag.com/shop.

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