“Drink to me only with thine eyes, and I will pledge with mine; or leave a kiss but in the cup and I’ll not look for wine,” Johnson, The Forest. To Celia, St.1.
Many people, viticulturalists included, have given Count Agostin Haraszthy from Hungary the credit for introducing Zinfandel to California, where it flourished like weeds (that was the way I taught it at Cornell, at least). Many missed the fact that the count also selected the Wollersheim Winery’s charming vineyard site on a location above the Wisconsin River across from Prairie du Sac. Bob Wollersheim, a bit of a crusty pioneer/entrepreneur, bought the winery in 1972. Despite declared odds that he’d never make it, Bob became a tireless practitioner of winemaking as well as an endless promoter of his wines (Note: In order to cope with Wisconsin’s rugged winters despite the vineyard’s location next to the moderating river, he sometimes had to bury his vines to protect them from Mother Nature). Over time, the skeptical public began to glimpse and appreciate his improving quality, especially when he hired winemaker Philippe Coquard, a Beaujolais, France, native. Philippe wasted no time and married Bob’s daughter, Julie. Their partnership is now solid history, and they even own the Cedar Creek winery in Cedarburg. Their future tastes bright, indeed!
And now, on to my tasting of a variety of Wollersheim’s goodies. As is typical, I’ve scored these on my “A”-“F” scale:
1. American Dry Riesling, Non Vintage, $9: Displaying a light straw color with medium body, it displayed subtle notes of flowers, pineapple and peaches. Nicely fruity with a slightly off-dry finish. Try with grilled chicken or light cheese. Clean. B+
2. Prairie Fume 2008, $9 ($7.99 at Consumer Beverage Outlet in Hales Corners): Pale, almost white hue. Light body with a shy nose evolving into barely discernable notes of mandarin and melon, then finishing with slight acidity. A touch drier than the Riesling and good with light cheese or nice company. A
3. Prairie Sunburst Red, 2009, $9: Ruby robe with slight hints of brick. Medium-plus body with a nose of dark cherry and slightly stemmy notes. In the mouth, it displayed medium fruit with notes of intensity, finishing with a bracing bit of tannin. To me, this hinted of Philippe’s training in Beaujolais. Try with grilled meat. B
4. Port, 2008, $20: Deep reddish-black color with heavy body. Deeply medicinal nose that invites introspection. Astringent, richly fruity middle evolves into a sweet, lingering finish, which was not unpleasant. Not as full-bore as many European counterparts, and almost Tawny Port-like. Absolutely and chemically fabulous with Gorgonzola cheese! A-
Wollersheim also makes an Ice Wine with 100 percent Estate Grown St. Pepin grapes. I can imagine a perfect pairing with fresh fruit. $47.
Today’s winner was the Prairie Fume, another title for Wisconsin. Because I feel Wollersheim’s prices are so attainable, I’d readily grant all entries a price/value award.
News flash! I recently had the opportunity to sample Lo Duca’s Red Mamertino with Jim Lo Duca, its proud father and importer. Sister to the screamingly popular White Mamertino, it struts many of the same attributes of its stablemate. I found it to be deeply red with a medium-heavy body and a broodingly deep nose redolent of rich plums, cherries and berries. Red Mamertino was a rich wine with a moderate burst of sweetness that ended refreshingly and acidically tart and clean. Over lunch of a blackened salmon salad at the creative Anvil Restaurant in Cedarburg, I was practically giddy with excitement over how well the wine danced with the buttery richness of the salmon. Another food/wine chemical triumph. Available at Pick & Save for $10.99, at Piggly Wiggly in Mequon for $9.99 and at Consumer Beverage Outlet Center in Hales Corners for $8.99. Buy this great summertime beauty.
