Rutabaga and Gravlax
If winter has gotten you down – and ugh, it’s still technically fall – you can take comfort in comforting food. Because now is the time that restaurants give me what I’m craving. I’m talking about dill pickled rutabaga and bûche de Noël (the traditional French Christmas cake). You heard right, only not on the same plate. That brings me to Sanford Restaurant, whose contemporary ethnic holiday menu runs through January (1547 N. Jackson St., 414-276-9608). I think I can say with confidence that it’s the only prix fixe menu in town inspired by Sweden, Poland, Great Britain and France. I gave you a little hint of what’s on it. Allow me to elaborate. Course #1 (Sweden) is gravlax with rye cakes, mustard mousseline and dill pickled rutabaga. The second course (Poland): pork and smoked mushroom “little ear” dumplings in beet vegetable broth. Third course (Great Britain): seared breast of pheasant with plums, leeks and lemon molasses crispy crumb bread sauce. The last course (and my personal favorite): baby bûche de Noël with candy cane ice cream. Now I’m officially in the holiday spirit. Note: This menu available on Monday through Friday nights only.
Learning Curve
I have been fielding calls from people for whom “holiday gift” means “cooking class gift certificate.” Now that is a great gift. It’s the gift that keeps on giving, particularly if you stand to benefit from the lessons. Sandy and Angie D’Amato, proprietors of the abovementioned Sanford Restaurant are doing a winter series of classes at their Third Ward restaurant Coquette Cafe (316 N. Milwaukee St.). There are still some classes available, but don’t delay if you’re interested. What’s available right now: The “Exceptional Seafood” class on Jan. 14th ($69 per person). Dishes prepared for this class include seared scallops on fennel with tomato and saffron vinaigrette, and sake-marinated sea bass with cucumber noodles. There are also openings in the Feb. 24th “Easy as Pie” class, which touches on things every cook can bone up on – knife sharpening skills and classic vegetable cutting. To register yourself – or someone else – call Coquette with haste: 414-291-2655.
Christmas Past
Charles Dickens is one of my favorite guys. You know that question people ask, “If you could invite three historical figures to dinner, who would they be?” For me, Dickens would be one of them. That being pretty much impossible, maybe I’ll settle for a caroler (with Florentine Opera chops) posing as Charles Dickens. The annual Dickens Dinners at the Pabst Mansion (2000 W. Wisconsin Ave.) features a cocktail reception, singers dressed in period costume (including someone posing as Dickens), a three-course traditional English feast prepared by Bartolotta Catering and self-guided tours of the decorated mansion. The dates: Dec. 15-19 and 21-23, with two seatings – 5:15 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. Also Dec. 20 at 5:15 p.m. and 7:45 p.m. Tickets: children (12 and under) $35; adults $89 on Saturday and for all second-seatings; $79 for first-seatings, except on Saturday. For reservations, call Bartolotta Catering at 414-727-6980.
Walk and Drink
Wine “walk-abouts” are a big draw for Milwaukee Wine School. Case in point: “30 Wines for $30.” The class is happening this Saturday afternoon at Bacchus Restaurant (925 E. Wells St.) I think two hours devoted to wine on a weekend afternoon is time well spent. Wine school founder Jessica Bell will offer selections from California, Germany, Spain, Chile, Argentina and other areas of interest. Five of the 30 wines are sparkling. Bell will be on site to answer questions. The Bacchus staff will provide snacks while the wine is flowing. To register, call Bacchus: 414-765-1166.
Wild Dance
I’ve harped on winter enough already. But you know, it’s impossible not to. I think the only antidote is food. Over at the Potawatomi Bingo Casino (721 W. Canal St.), two restaurants have thrown a cloak of winter over their menus. At Wild Earth, reviewed in the November 2008 issue of Milwaukee Magazine, things are looking a lot more like… stuff you’d eat when baby, it’s cold outside. For example, squash soup with spicy pecans ($6); apple and frisée salad with dried cranberries, currants, apricots and candied pecans ($6 and $9); rotisserie sirloin with Brussels sprouts, bacon, mashed potatoes and beef jus ($15); and carved pork loin with cremini mushroom and brioche dressing, rainbow Swiss chard and cranberry cider cream ($16). Dream Dance’s new winter coat, so to speak, includes New Zealand ostrich tenderloin ($28), Australian kangaroo tenderloin ($26) and Kurobuta pork chops ($30), which can come with butternut squash pancakes ($6), sage spaetzle and savoy cabbage ($6), and spiced tarragon slaw ($6). For dessert, there’s peppermint ice cream chocolate cream puffs ($9) and almond fruit frangipane tart ($10). Reservations? You’ll need them. Call 414-847-7883.
Can’t get enough dining? I chat about restaurants every week with Jane Matenaer and Kidd O’Shea on “The Mix.” Listen between 8 and 9 a.m. on Thursday, Dec. 18th. That’s 99.1 WMYX-FM.
