“The more the marble wastes, the more the statue grows,” Michelangelo
During my frequent trips to the Napa and Sonoma Valleys during the 60s and 70s, I became acutely aware of the new breed of feisty, pioneer-like wineries, names like Chateau St. Jean, Chateau Montelena, Caymus, Carneros Creek, Stony Hill and Simi. The latter was legendary, as it was womanned (I cannot dare say manned) by the wonderfully talented Zelma Long, who introduced a score of innovations to California’s wine scene, a number of which live on to this day. Long was preceded by the equally talented Mary Ann Graf, then ultimately succeeded by a bevy of great winemakers, culminating in today’s able performances by Steve Reeder, who used to ply his trade at neighboring Chateau St. Jean after his graduation from the University of California at Davis, the breeding ground of the state’s best winemakers.
Simi’s history dates back to 1848, when Guiseppe Simi left his native Tuscany to strike gold in California. Encountering no luck, he turned his sights to winemaking both in San Francisco and Healdsburg, using potentially better gold: grapes. Creative and clever management was employed to steer through Prohibition by selling sacramental wine to churches. It was divinely successful and ultimately enabled the winery to grow to its present acreage of more than 500, including a large purchase of super-prime land in the Russian River Valley in 1989.
Today, I tried two of Simi’s better wines, and I’m pleased to pass along my observations to you. Both of these wines are available in the marketplace, if you can find them. They are also sold in Simi’s robust tasting room, along with a glittering assortment of tasting room-only and reserve wines. If I’m lucky enough to get some, watch for a future tantalizing taste of a couple of these tidbits!
1) Simi Reserve Chardonnay, 2009, Russian River, $28 at the winery, $26 retail. Creamy off-white hue with heavy, almost clinging body. The nose was complex and deep, with pronounced notes of peach, pear and grapefruit springing forth on top of bits of butterscotch (some fetching malolactic fermentation, methinks). In the mouth, it was smoothly round and lightly acidic with more suggestions of butterscotch, easing into an elegant finish. Classic Russian River Chardonnay at its best! A+
2) Simi Landslide Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008, Alexander Valley, $40 at the winery, $35 retail. This wine is a French Bordeaux-like blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot, Malbec and Tannat. Warmly inviting ruby color with heavy body. Deep, fun nose with a fabulous, teasing variety of integrated plum, spice, blueberry, cherry, berry and the slightest hint of mint. On the palate, it was barely astringent and deeply complex – a veritable symphony of joyous grapes with a long, well-knit finish. Marvelous with a great roast – or a rocking chair. A+
For eons, we thought that Europe set the high bar for international fine winemaking. With this tasting, in my book, Simi has definitely joined the Big Leagues in a big way.
Great work, folks, and my best holiday cheers!
