Sanford photo by John Cizmas
Pigs and Frogs
Sanford’s ode to the Burgundy region of La France is in its second week. This is the restaurant’s four-course Exploration Menu, which is as French as sautéed frog legs and salmon Bourguignon with lardons. And they are very French. Along with wild mushroom soup (with foie gras flan) and tarte tatin made with local quince, you can make that Burgundy trip for $49 per person. Menu available Monday-Friday. Chef de cuisine Justin Aprahamian has irons in the fire. On April 22, he will try out-pork other local chefs at SloPig Milwaukee, where the man will defend his title – the title he earned at SlowPig Madison last October. The Milwaukee SloPig event is at the Intercontinental Milwaukee Hotel. (Click here for the website, still under construction.) And Aprahamian is up for a 2012 James Beard Foundation Award. He is one of the 20 semifinalists for Best Midwest Chef. The final nominee list will be revealed March 19. Aprahamian and Sanford co-owner/chef Sandy D’Amato are scheduled – along with many other chefs – to cook after the May 7 awards ceremony in New York City. The duo plan to make Wisconsin borscht with duck brats and caraway cream.
May I begin with a quote attributed to Benjamin Franklin: “Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Now, say you don’t believe in a God.… Still, I think you deserve to be happy. And you might be happy that there are still seats available for Friday night’s Central Waters Beer Dinner at Bacchus. Each of the five courses is paired with a beer from Central Waters Brewing Company, based in Amherst, Wisconsin. The menu: sautéed quail with pan juices, capers and arugula (with Ouisconsing Red Ale); braised pork shoulder with brown butter polenta, aged cheddar and espelette (with Glacial Trail IPA); grilled New York strip loin with braised chard, sweet potato and rich red wine sauce (Mudpuppy Porter); a Wisconsin cheese course served with Bourbon Barrel Stout and Bourbon Barley Stout; walnut cake with acacia honey ice cream and preserved fruits (Peruvian Morning Bourbon Barrel Aged Imperial Stout 1414). The meal is $75 per person. March 9, 6:30 p.m. Call without delay: 414-765-1166. (Bacchus, 925 E. Wells St.)
Movement at the Market
The shelves where Rupena’s stocked meats and prepared foods at the Third Ward’s Milwaukee Public Market (400 N. Water St.) are empty and dark. But the market staff is mum on what will replace it.… Across the aisle from the old Rupena’s, The Green Kitchen has expanded in a lateral direction. The menu has grown only by one sandwich, but the extra space will allow the sandwich/salad/fresh-squeezed juices joint to do perhaps a yogurt parfait bar somewhere down the line. And finally, last fall you might recall the mention of Madison-based VOM FASS (a company that sells oils and cask-aged vinegar) having plans to open a location at the market. That deal fell through, but VOM FASS marketing manager Tami Newman says there is still interest in opening a location in Milwaukee. Somewhere, sometime.
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