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| Photo by Adam Ryan Morris. |
This story appears in the June 2011 issue of Milwaukee Magazine.
CLICK HERE for a full gallery of images from this article!
by Cristina Daglas
Did you know there used to be a nude beach? Have you heard of The Challenge, an 87-foot schooner that sunk in Lake Michigan? And are you ready for some muscle men running around with 300-pound Atlas stones? (Is anyone?) Granted, this is an odd group of tidbits, but Milwaukee’s lakefront is exactly that – a pleasantly eccentric, often surprising collection of parks, trails and beaches, some smack dab in the middle of Downtown, others down flights and flights of stairs, ending on relatively remote (albeit stunning) sandy beaches.
First, ladies and gents, let’s get this out of the way. Search all you’d like for said nude beach (whether to partake or avoid), but you won’t find it. Closed in 1993, Paradise Beach was a hot spot for naturists, first located on North Lake Drive and then moved to a larger space near UW-Milwaukee. But all good things must end apparently, and clothing these days is not optional in Milwaukee. (Head to Wisconsin’s only nude holdout, Mazo Beach, near Mazomanie on the Wisconsin River, if you just can’t bear to wear the suit.)
Now back to the alive and kickin’ Milwaukee lakefront. Bradford Beach is the new star, greatly improved from its algae-ridden days, and five beaches in Milwaukee County alone are open for sunbathing and swimming. Wait, people actually swim? Indeed, they do. And it’s safe. With frequent health department monitoring, water quality is reported at wibeaches.us, and advisory signs are posted on-site. In fact, Bradford and North Beach in Racine are “Blue Wave” winners, the primo national award for beach and water quality.
Water activities are better than ever with boating, kiteboarding, surfing, skiing and Jet Skiing. And land activities aren’t far behind. Bring on the kite-flying, biking and beach boot camp. And don’t forget the food. Never forget the food.
The lakefront is accessible, affordable and downright gorgeous. “Everyone can get to it, and it’s basically free,” says Milwaukee County Parks Director Sue Black. “I don’t think people are familiar with the shoreline.” And that’s a shame. Greater Milwaukee offers a 75-mile stretch of shore with some of the best summer activities you can find. What, you doubt this? Clearly, it’s time to bring out the beach bum in you.
Kohler-Andrae
State Park
1020 Beach Park Ln., Sheboygan
This natural preserve has one of the richer histories of area parks, complete with Native American tribes, explorers, fur traders, settlers, pioneers and shipwrecks (more than 50 vessels have sunk, including the legendary Challenge, which was built in Manitowoc in 1852). The 1,000-acre park boasts some of Lake Michigan’s most glorious beaches. There are 137 campground units, nature programs, miles of beach and hiking trails: Go by foot, bike or horse on the Black River Trail’s 2.5 miles through prairie, woodlands and a red pine plantation.
Harrington Beach
State Park
531 County Highway D, Belgium
Four trails (hiking, nature, horse and historic) weave through the 636-acre park, and there are 64 camping sites. Puckett’s Pond and Quarry Lake contain fishing areas, but the lovely mile-long beach is the highlight. Swimming, scuba diving and surfing are all permitted, and the southern section is dog-friendly, a rarity at area beaches.
Doctors Park
1870 E. Fox Ln.
Adjacent to the Schlitz Audubon Center is this 54.8-acre park. Not frilly or fancy, Doctors sticks to the basics, offering stunning views of Lake Michigan with plenty of land to roam, three picnic areas and a ravine.
Klode Park
5932 N. Lake Dr., Whitefish Bay
Perhaps the most domesticated yet still picturesque lakeside park, Klode has walking paths, picnic areas, tennis courts, an athletic field, playground, beach, swimming and fishing. In the winter (but let’s not think about that), there’s also ice skating.
Atwater Park and Beach
4000 N. Lake Dr., Shorewood
At the end of East Capitol Drive, this scenic little gem has 5 acres and 800 feet of shoreline. Experience both the street-level park, complete with a bizarrely controversial (and quite nifty) Jaume Plensa sculpture, and the sandy expanse of beach that’s down several flights of stairs. Atwater hosts a bevy of events, including the Shorewood Concert Band series, Fourth of July fireworks and the annual Shorewood Men’s Club Chicken BBQ. If you’re lucky, you might even spot a pack of hot Midwestern surfers who take to the water year-round. (Whistles.)
Bradford Beach
2400 N. Lincoln Memorial Dr.
“We put Bradford back on the radar,” Black says. Once considered the area’s dirtiest beach, the new and improved version is now busier than nearby Ma Fischer’s at 3 a.m.
Volleyball leagues, a strongman competition (yowza, with Atlas stones), rugby, family days, kid-friendly activities, charity events and wine tastings fill the schedule. Then there’s the Bradford Beach Jam sports and reggae music festival in July, the Milwaukee Air and Water Show in August, the summerlong Thursday Night Acoustic Series and Sunday Fundays (DJs, beach bingo, promotions).
Rent cabanas and umbrellas on-site, and sunbathe and swim your day away. Lifeguards are on duty from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. If the winds are right, you might glimpse kiteboarders, who flock to Bradford for its optimal conditions and 12- to 15-foot waves.
Hungry? No problem. In 2008, Scott Johnson and Leslie Montemurro, the restaurateurs behind Comet, Balzac, Honeypie, etc., revamped the Bradford Beach House, creating an oh-so-tasty concession stand.
McKinley Park
1750 N. Lincoln Memorial Dr.
Boats are key at McKinley (and fun to check out). Sitting on more than 100 acres, launch ramps abound at the marina in addition to a yacht club and sailing center. Two fishing spots exist, one by the Government Pier (also known as the breakwater) and another closer to Lincoln Memorial Drive. Walk out on the Government Pier for unsurpassed views of both the lake and Downtown. Back on park land are a playground and the most picturesquely sited tennis courts in town.
Northpoint Custard
2272 N. Lincoln Memorial Dr.
A trip up to the ordering window elicits a distinctly old-time feel. Frozen custard made with Madagascar vanilla is the specialty, and boy is it tasty, but the burgers, hot dogs, Klement’s brats and cheese curds take far from a back seat. The outdoor tables are perfect for a relaxing meal overlooking the lake. Owned by the Bartolotta restaurant group (Bacchus, Lake Park Bistro, etc.), Northpoint has proven so successful that a second location opened last year at the … airport. Open during the warm months, Northpoint serves lengthy lines of hungry beach folk from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.
Fish Fry & A Flick
500 N. Harbor Dr.
The Discovery World grounds hug the lake and are perfect for a serene summer stroll. Or plan a family picnic, take a gander at the 19th-century-style schooner, the S/V Denis Sullivan, and watch as significantly smaller boats dock for the day. But come Friday night at dusk, remove those kiddies, because the adult (not that kind of adult) Fish Fry & A Flick is raring to go. This hip, late-summer movie series, now in its third year, is organized by Discovery World and the Pabst Theater. Bartolotta Restaurant Group provides the $9.95 fish fry, Point Brewery comes through with stellar beer specials, and the movie is free.
Starting Aug. 5, the series will run through September, with a launch party June 3 at Turner Hall. “We’re really looking for two groups of movies,” says Andrew Nelson of the Pabst. “There are the cult classics. We’ve done Big Lebowski, and that was a huge hit. But this year, we’re going to be looking more at some recent, newer movies, some favorites that are a little more edgy.” Exciting, Andrew, tell us more! “It takes some time to get those solidified.” OK, fine, we’ll wait till June.
Lakeshore State Park
500 N. Harbor Dr.
Wisconsin’s only urban state park, Lakeshore is unique, an island just off Downtown, with 22 acres and perfect views of the skyline. A bridge connects to the Summerfest grounds, and a trail connects to the Hank Aaron and Oak Leaf state trails. A small beach area allows for canoe and kayak launches, there are 20 boat slips in the marina, and fishing areas are also available. Come June 11, the Gathering Waters Festival offers boat demos and rides, rock climbing, fishing and various water sport activities.
South Shore Park
2900 S. Shore Dr., Bay View
Its unobstructed view of Downtown Milwaukee is one of the best to be had. This overlooked, 44-acre urban park has a yacht club, sand volleyball, a softball diamond, boat launch ramps, horseshoe pits (yes, horseshoes!), picnic areas, rip raps, a playground and, of course, a beach for swimming. Summer and fall months bring the Saturday farmers market to the grassy area, and July brings the annual South Shore Frolics festival.
Grant Park Beach
100 Hawthorne Ave., South Milwaukee
With nearly 380 acres, this massive park, established in 1911, is one of the oldest in Milwaukee County. It’s wonderfully scenic, with trails, greenery, native plant communities, soccer fields, tennis courts, playgrounds and an 18-hole golf course, which opened in 1920 and was the first operated by the county. Nine picnic areas, which can be rented, dot the grounds, and more than 200 parking spaces make Grant quite accessible. Descend the stone staircase to reach the beach, which stretches the length of the entire park, affording places to swim and sunbathe in solitude.
Grant is best known for its Seven Bridges Hiking Trail, which meanders through woods, ravines and the beach, crossing bridges and stone paths, for about two miles. The park system’s first superintendent of horticulture constructed paths in the early 1900s, with development continuing into the 1930s. “It’s fantastic,” Black says. “You don’t see any buildings. You’d think you’re out in the middle of nowhere.” And rumor has it, it’s haunted.
North Beach
89 Kewaunee St., Racine
North Beach is Racine’s Bradford. A hot spot for surfers throughout the year, you can also swim, fish, picnic, bike and play at Kid’s Cove, the largest outdoor playground in the state. There’s also a concession stand, and it often showcases live music.
Activities!
The lakefront provides seemingly endless room to explore and plenty of activities to occupy the three months of good weather Wisconsinites are privileged to each year. So get moving, folks. Your time is limited.
The lakefront provides seemingly endless room to explore and plenty of activities to occupy the three months of good weather Wisconsinites are privileged to each year. So get moving, folks. Your time is limited.
Water Sports
Renting five different kinds of boats – including various kayaks, canoes and paddleboards – keeps Laacke & Joys busy during the summer. “We rent out the majority on the weekend,” says shop employee Luke Stecker. Most renters put the boats straight into the Milwaukee River dock located behind the Downtown shop (1433 N. Water St.), but some of the more adventurous strap the boats to their cars and head to the lake. “Maybe a quarter of the people go on the lake,” Stecker says. Rentals range from $30-$50 per day. laackeandjoys.com.
Looking for a less-intense experience? Paddleboats are pretty fantastic. Juneau Park Paddleboats rents these at the lagoon, along with hydro-bikes and radio-controlled sailboats. And it’s only $5 per person per half-hour. juneauparkpaddleboats.com.
The Milwaukee Community Sailing Center (1450 N. Lincoln Memorial Dr., sailingcenter.org) offers lessons for people of all experience levels and rides for those looking for an excursion.
Jet Ski the Lakefront, headquartered at Grant Park, rents Jet Skis for anywhere from $79 per hour on a weekday to a weekend day for $300. jetskithelakefront.com.
Explore Lake Michigan shipwrecks by scuba diving with Len-Der Charters. The dock is on South Water Street, and weekday dives leave at 5:30 p.m. and return between 8 and 9 p.m. One dive trip runs $75. len-der.com.
Dry Land Action
Traverse the lakefront on wheels with Milwaukee Bike & Skate Rental, located in Veterans Park. It has surreys, pedal-powered go-karts, bikes and skates in addition to Segway tours. $6 an hour for skate rentals to $45 for the Segway tour. milwbikeskaterental.com.
Yoga on the sand, anyone? Instructor Rita Burlingame of Yoga Ward (yogaward.com) is planning a round of lakefront yoga starting in July at Upper Lake Park in Port Washington. Bradford is home to yoga
classes, led by Tom Feest of Elite Fitness, Saturdays at 8 a.m., June through August
(eliteclubs.com). Also at Bradford is the Milwaukee Adventure Boot Camp for Women
(milwaukeebootcamp.com), which meets at 5:30 a.m., Monday through Friday.
Go Fly a Kite
No, really. Fly one. Fly many. The skies above Veterans Park are dotted with kites big and small all summer long. But a truly spectacular sight is the annual Family Kite Festival (this is the 24th year) at Veterans Park. The two-day, Memorial Day weekend shindig attracts hundreds of enthusiasts, with a grand launch of 500 kites in the afternoon.
Blue Wave
During Bradford’s revitalization, those involved set their sights on one award: Blue Wave, the first environmental certification program for beaches. The Clean Beaches Coalition, a nonprofit in Washington, D.C., has sponsored the award for 12 years. Focusing on water quality, beach conditions and habitat conservation, among other factors, it’s the gold standard for U.S. beaches. In 2008, to help restore Bradford, Miller Brewing Co. donated $500,000 over five years to go toward removing algae, water quality monitoring and seagull control. The work paid off in 2009, and Bradford joined North Beach, the first in Wisconsin to receive the Blue Wave honor.
