Thorny Location?
According to press release-speak, Blackthorn Pub & Grill (750 N. Jefferson St., 414-837-5511) is “where old and new traditions collide.” Last Saturday was the grand opening of Irish(-ish?) business. It’s part of a mixed-use building – once housing ill-fated Senor Frog’s – that underwent a facelift a few years ago to help increase visibility on the building’s southeastern side. That’s where Blackthorn is located. A bare-bones version of the menu features a Celtic burger, Reuben and tenderloin sandwich. Incidentally, the website features a provocative image of a woman in a very short plaid skirt.
Fall Follower
I have found a new muse. It’s the Carnival squash, similar in size to acorn squash, but instead of uniformly green, the skin has streaks of orange, yellow and cream. The squash is so pretty that I want to leave it on my kitchen counter as a still life. This fall moment brings me to something autumnal and practical – the fall menu for Tess (2499 N. Bartlett Ave., 414-964-8377). It sounds like a good balance of creative and comfort. “Comfort” is akin to dipping bread into the coconut milk/chipotle broth that comes with Tess’ steamed mussels appetizer. From the entrée list, we have: braised country-style pork spare ribs with dried fig mustard and creamy polenta; Moroccan chicken with dried date-garbanzo sauce; and (OK, not very fall-ish but sounds good) scallops with Vietnamese nuoc cham sauce, jicama-carrot-bean-sprout slaw and lemongrass black jasmine rice. A fan of the fry? Tess’ Friday night fish offering is panko-breaded lake perch or tempura-battered tilapia, with sweet potato fries, crunchy Asian-style coleslaw, rye bread, homemade ketchup and tartar sauce ($14).
Other New Stuff
A week ago, Water Street Brewery’s Grafton location was unveiled to the world (2615 Washington St., 262-375-2222). Menu items range from “super” nachos and Philly steak sandwich to jambalaya, smoked chicken pasta and the “Old World Selection,” featuring char-grilled Usinger bratwurst and Stuttgarter knackwurst. House specialties: baby-back pork ribs, grilled salmon and Saturday night prime rib ($17.95-$24.95). The location sports some of WSB’s memorabilia collection, which includes more than 50,000 beer cans, 2,300 coasters and 1,100 beer taps and knobs. The restaurant is open daily at 11 a.m. Milwaukee Ale House also has a location in Grafton (1208 13th Ave.).… And La Fuente is keeping the seats warm at the old Monreal’s El Matador (9155 W. Blue Mound Rd., 414-771-9900). No surprises here. The West Side location serves the same Mexican menu (burritos, tacos, chimichangas, etc.) as the mothership on South Fifth Street. Hours: Sun-Thurs 10 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri-Sat 10 a.m-11:30 p.m.
Power Hour
Happy Hour! Good grief, it couldn’t come soon enough. Both locations of North Star American Bistro (4515 N. Oakland Ave., and 19115 W. Capitol Dr., Brookfield) are making Thursdays count. The Thursday happy hours are 4-7 p.m. Some examples of the special $4 appetizers: fried cheese, peel ’n eat shrimp, taquitos, hickory-smoked ribs, and mini crab cakes with tarragon aïoli. Drink specials, too.
Look for more Dish on Dining on Thursday!
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If you spot any restaurant openings or closings, post it on the comments section of my column, or e-mail me directly: ann.christenson@milwaukeemagazine.com.
