“…Can burst Joy’s grape against his palate fine…” John Keats, 1795-1821, Ode on Melancholy, st.3.
French Beaujolais (pronounced “BoJoLay”) has long been one of the world’s most endearing and festive concoctions. I remember discussing Beaujolais in a wine class I taught and hearing a particularly fetching co-ed coo, “Oooh – I just love BooJooLee!” A small voice at the back of my mind suggested, at my potential peril, to consider dating her.
All Beaujolais wines are sourced in the Beaujolais area of France and are made from the Gamay grape, occasionally with a little help from a Pinot Noir friend for a touch more backbone. Consequently, some wine aficionados consider Beaujolais to be part of Burgundy, even though the climate is closer to that of the Rhone area. The Romans began cultivating the area, but from the seventh century on, most of the viticulture and winemaking was done by Benedictine monks (I can just hear it, “Pretty funky altar wine, eh, Brother?”).
Today’s much-hyped Beaujolais Nouveau wines are often released when they are 7 to 9 weeks old to cheers, “Le Beaujolais et arrive!” and they are meant to be quaffers in the bistros and taverns of France. Basically, it all started in the 19th century when wines were hustled down the Soane River to eager bistros in Lyon. Now, it’s usually released on the third Thursday of November, close to Thanksgiving, when its fruit-forward ebullience marries well with a dandy array of festive food. Ideally, it is best served at close to fifty-six degrees, but I sometimes give a bottle a quick chill in the refrigerator before serving.
To my recollection, some of France’s better-known producers/shippers/importers are George Dubeouf (which often sports upbeat or flowery labels), Brunet, Jadot (a famed and reliable label based in Burgundy that makes wonderfully seductive wines from the area and acts as a negotiator, or buyer and distributor, of a variety of French wines), and Kermit Lynch in Berkeley, Calif. A friend of mine, Charles F. Shaw, made a respectable and lightly delicious West Coast version until, after seeing the writing on the vinous wall, was forced to sell his brand to Franzia. Henceforth, Charles Shaw, or Three Buck Chuck, is now as ubiquitous as a virus.
I recently snagged a bottle of 2009 Jadot Beaujolais Villages from Piggly Wiggly in Mequon for $8.99 and found it to be most pleasant. It had a velvety, purple hue with light body and a tremendously fruity and deep nose with playful notes of violet, lavender and a hint of licorice. It practically exploded in the mouth with bouncing fruit that begged for more enjoyment. With a light, lingering finish, I easily gave it an “A-“.
Cheers, and Happy Holidays!
