Newcomer Fixture Pizza Pub adds its own model to the local pizza lexicon.

To pizza aficionados from beyond our borders, “Milwaukee-style” ’za isn’t a valid term at all, but an attempt to give street cred to cracker-thin-crust pies. But those of us who’ve eaten our share of slices from Zaffiro’s, Balistreri’s and others know that not only is “Milwaukee-style” a real thing; it’s also a delicious thing. Walker’s Point’s Fixture Pizza Pub (623 S. Second St., 414-736-8709) uses the local lingo and keeps its cracker crust from getting soggy by applying the cheese first, followed by the sauce and other toppings.

Meatballs with sugo. Photo by Chris Kessler.

Meatballs with sugo. Photo by Chris Kessler.

To be sure, the pub’s round, square-cut pies – which you can customize with toppings or order a specialty version named after a neighboring business (e.g., the MKE Brewing Co., with pepperoni and serrano chilies) – are anything but wilty. Peppadew peppers add sweetness to any pie, including the tangy Rev Pop, topped with fresh tomato and basil. Though the bar’s name promises pizza, it offers quite a bit more – crispy, golden calamari; charbroiled oysters (when in season); chicken parmigiana; “Spag and Balls” (in a chunky, savory sugo); and, if you’re not content to nurse a beer in one of the huge leather booths, there’s indoor bocce. Come November, expect Fixture to introduce nightly specials and expand its lineup of pastas. Prices: pastas $14-$15; specialty pizzas in 3 sizes, $16-$22. Hours: Tues-Thurs 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Fri-Sat 11 a.m.-midnight; Sun 11 a.m.-9 p.m.

‘Tossed in the Ring’ appears in the November issue of Milwaukee Magazine.

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