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Kawa Japanese Restaurant makes a strong raw calling in the new-restaurant-deprived North Shore.

It was called Sushi Magic. This kit promised to turn the stickiest of fingers into a nori-rolling pro. If I had only opened the box. But my Sushi Magic, a well-intentioned gift, ended up on a yard sale table (where it didn’t sell).

There’s nothing like exquisite sushi, nori rolls and other raw wonders served up by the professionals. That’s my thought as I watch the men (always men) behind the sushi bar at Kawa, Whitefish Bay’s newest and thrillingest restaurant, if you gravitate to vinegared rice, toro (fatty tuna) and sheets of seaweed and pickled ginger.

Kawa dramatically changed the tenor of 325 W. Silver Spring Dr. – a former Eastern European diner and a bagel shop. The flesh tones of fish seem to respond to sleek interiors with black banquettes, shiny white tables with an eye-catching inlaid marble pattern, sparkly backsplashes and silver-toned pillars.

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‘Stop, Drop and Roll’ appears in the November 2015 issue of Milwaukee Magazine.

Find the November issue on newsstands Nov. 2

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