Sinabro has been open for over a year, but it’s kept very much to itself. There were reasons for that, in the beginning. Han Kim, co-owner of this Korean spot in the old home of Coquette Cafe, told me before it opened that he wanted to downplay its familial relationship to two other Korean restaurants.
This was to ensure an “open-minded” guest experience, one “not affected” by the other restaurants Kim’s family owns, which include Char’d and Kanpai Izakaya, both just a few blocks from Sinabro, and Maru on the East Side.
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Tuning out the noise and enjoying Sinabro on its own merits shouldn’t be too hard. While Maru toes a classic Korean line and Char’d explores a more modern, elegant dynamic, Sinabro veers exuberantly in different directions – dumplings, ramen, noodle dishes, stews.
Probably the most recognizable Korean food to Americans is kimchi (spicy fermented cabbage), and Sinabro makes theirs with cucumbers. I’ve seen other diners mow down these bowls of piquant heat like that’s their meal. But that was never me. It’s taken me a year to get my bearings here. I think Sinabro has benbiefited from time. Whatever the case, the food has improved since a bumpy start.
Be sure to order a side or two of that kimchi – the crunchy, tangy cukes enhance just about every dish here. Take the steamed king dumplings (four pieces, $10) – chewy, with a bit of bounce, and packed with spicy pork. I eat one with the soy dipping sauce, the others with kimchi – and the kimchi has the edge! I wish it could save the bibimbap.
The classic “mixed rice” isn’t enough of a mix – it’s light on crisp, cold vegetables and almost devoid of grilled beef ($21). Bad night? This dish should be a slam dunk.
But I can forget that disappointment. They have duk bokki! This street-food staple ($14) features chewy, tube-shaped rice cakes and round, mild fish cake balls in a bath of sweet-spicy gochujang sauce that’s pure umami. I order it blanketed with cheese ($3), which turns it into delicious pile of melty goo.
Next up, the spicy cold ramen ($19) is everything the duk isn’t – refreshing, almost light by comparison. The cool, slippery noodles topped with crunchy raw veg and seaweed are the yin to the earthy gochujang sauce and runny fried egg’s yang.
I’m drawn to the japchae ($19) for its distinctive translucent glass noodles. Made with sweet potato starch, they’re sticky and chewy, springy in the best way, and make this simple stir fry with veg and beef (or tofu) special.
Over the years, I’ve grown to appreciate silken tofu in sauces that sizzle with a restrained intensity. The Korean soft tofu stew ($19) – with rice cakes, zucchini and beef – is comforting and hearty, the heat measured.
I was slow to warm up to Sinabro, underwhelmed by it all. But my gradual conversion validates its name: Sinabro is Korean for little by little.
Sinabro Korean & Noodle House
Address: 316 N. Milwaukee St., 414-485-6010
Hours: Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner: Sun-Thurs 4:30-9 p.m.; Fri-Sat 4:30-10 p.m.
Prices: Starters $7-$16; ramen and udon $17-$20; specials $19-$25
Service: Friendly, quick
Reservations: Accepted
