From the Hoan Bridge-conjuring pillars in the lobby to the second-floor restaurant named after city co-founder Solomon Juneau, the Deer District’s new hotel, The Trade, is worthy of its name. Think Milwaukee tradespeople, captains of industry proud. But also think modern showpiece in an up-and-coming neighborhood.
The hotel has three restaurants – Craft (ground level), which gives off high-end gastropub vibes; Solomon’s (second floor), a cocktail/curated shareable plates emporium; and the ninth-floor Italian beauty, Il Cervo (Italian for The Deer).
It’s time to pick your Milwaukee favorites for the year!
Il “CHAIR-vo,” as it’s pronounced, has the kind of modern, engaging interior that feels classy and current but doesn’t distract from what many are coming here for – the unique city skyline view that wraps around the southeast side of the building. The Il Cervo lounge (which can shift to open-air depending on the weather) and, perhaps more so, the rooftop patio were this summer’s latest hot spots.
The menu fills a spectrum of needs from the quick pizza and apps before a Bucks game at Fiserv Forum to spendy, multi-course meals that include a $110, 36-ounce prime porterhouse steak.
I’ve dodged the crowds and eaten at Il Cervo a few times. It’s not a flawless menu but many things are good. First on the high end of the delicious scale is the dried aged beef meatballs in marinara ($18). I grew up thinking meatballs should be dense and firm – like a burger in ball form. This stemmed from my Irish-American mother cooking Italian. But a light, almost delicate texture is a key characteristic, suggesting a gentle hand, and Il Cervo’s meatballs have that. The arancini ($17), on the other hand, nosedive – the inside of these fried rice balls is the texture of gummy mashed potatoes.
I would eagerly eat the cavatelli (tiny shells) with wild boar ragu ($27) again partly because of that dish’s secret weapon – peppery, crunchy cacao nibs that enhance the meaty flavor. The conchiglie (shells) in mascarpone vodka sauce with red shrimp ($27) is also great, from the creamy, bright sauce to the shrimp (firm and springy, neither over- nor undercooked) to the crispy gremolata sourdough crunch on top.
On the entrée side, I’m drawn to the unusual salmon presentation – the fish paired with beetroot buttermilk risotto, lemon crema and honey-glazed walnuts, with tiny pebbles of bee pollen sprinkled over the top ($38). Only parts of it work, though. The vivid-pink risotto, with little hunks of beet, is creamy and mellow. The salmon is moist and flaky with a crusty roasted exterior. Together, they meld. But the candied nuts are too sweet, and the crema isn’t lemony enough.
The sourdough crust pizzas ($18) – baked in a 4,500-pound stone hearth hoisted up to the top of the building – haven’t wowed me. It’s the crust, which is medium-thick and bland, without the chewy-crisp textural interest of, say, a Naples-style pie. If the crust had more flavor and definition, the simple, scant toppings would have been fine. As a vehicle for their housemade fresh cheeses, it misses the target. And yet, a subtle pie lends itself to a more robust salad, like the mixed greens with tangy house-made Italian giardiniera and hearty toasted buckwheat ($13), which is delicious.
A few wrinkles, especially in a project of this magnitude, are not unexpected – and can certainly be easily addressed. As the city builds this sports entertainment hub so important to tourism, The Trade – and its alluring rooftop restaurant – will have to glow.
Trade Made
WHILE IL CERVO is run by Madison-based Food Fight Restaurant Group, the hotel’s two other dining spots, Craft and Solomon’s Terrace and Lounge, are operated by the hotel. Craft is where you’ll get an eggs Benedict breakfast or burger-and-fries dinner. Solomon’s is less about food, more about craft cocktails. I’ve eaten at Craft twice, both times for dinner, and the only dish that was memorable (in a good way) was the salmon with potato purée. A hotel restaurant should serve a good burger; this one was just OK – after sending it back to the kitchen because the first one was overcooked. The caprese salad wasn’t even passable. Ambiance and service, however, were lovely. While Il Cervo is the razzle-dazzle, the other spots function as support beams. Craft, which competes with nearby casuals like Good City Brewing, needs to iron out those wrinkles before it’s a destination in its own right.
Il Cervo
420 W. JUNEAU AVE. | 414-279-6660
Hours: Sun-Thurs 4 p.m.-midnight; Fri-Sat 4 p.m.-1 a.m. (late-night menu nightly from 10:30 p.m.)
Prices: Pasta $24-$32; pizzas $18-$24; main courses $27-$110
Service: Friendly, enthusiastic and still learning
Reservations: Recommended
Parking: Metered and nonmetered street and valet
