“Perched cliffside with panoramic views of Downtown.” That’s one of the promotional descriptions I found for the multilevel Brewers Hill building synonymous with dining since 2003. Roots Restaurant & Cellar, Wolf Peach and View MKE have all been there and gone, with the latest concept to take over, Avli Inspired Greek, striving to bring luster to that spot again. On paper, it’s alluring – a “modern” Greek theme (which I guess is the antithesis to more antiquated family-style restaurants), owners who run popular sister restaurants in Chicagoland, and a very prominent Milwaukee investor (hint: he’s very tall and comes from Greece).
It’s time to pick your Milwaukee favorites for the year!
Avli spent last fall settling in. While this project had a lot of buzz leading up to its opening, my dining experiences haven’t met that level of excitement – which is common enough for new spots but not ideal for such a high-profile restaurant. One of the issues is the space. I’ve been seeing more new spots not putting enough (or any) attention into acoustics. Avli is attractive, evoking a Greek courtyard in summer, but with all hard surfaces, there’s nothing to absorb the sound. I discovered that dining at the upstairs bar, away from the closely placed dining tables, made conversation less prohibitive. But that also meant the one and only bartender was also our server – which turned into a knot when his drink orders stacked up. Other rookie service problems ensued, from confused or forgotten orders to a server repeatedly applying lip balm in the dining room.
The menu isn’t all that inspired, either. While I am happy to enjoy some familiar dishes, like spanakopita and souvlaki meat skewers, they should be stellar. They’re not. The spinach phyllo pie ($17) is overbaked and so dry, it’s hard to cut. The grilled chicken skewers ($15) with pita are also dry. And after two attempts, I still haven’t tried the moussaka, which was sold out each visit. (I’m told they make a finite amount of this casserole each night; by 7:00, though, they had run out.)
There are redemptions. The saganaki, or “fried cheese” ($16), is a very tasty, gooey wedge of graviera topped with honey pepper fig jam, but it comes by itself. You need to order pita separately ($1.25), which I only learn after ordering it. The four kataifi prawns ($17) – plump, tender shellfish in crisp shredded pastry – are great dipped in spicy aioli. I also like the zucchini fritters – light, crusty and tasty with their yogurt paprika dipping sauce ($14). Covered in a thick blanket of flaky phyllo, the beef ragout pie ($25) is a standout cinnamon-infused stew – spicy and mildly sweet. The baked half chicken ($23) was just short of overcooked, with good flavor, the meat falling off the bone and the crisp skin laced with herbs.
Greece has a magical cuisine fusing influences from across Europe. Avli could push its creativity far more ambitiously. Maybe then we’d see a truly inspired Greek restaurant.
Avli Inspired Greek
1818 N. HUBBARD ST. | 414-395-1300
Hours: Daily 5-10 p.m.
Prices: Spreads $11-$18; soup/salads $9-$15; meze $14-$19; mains $20-$38
Service: Friendly enough but chaotic
Reservations: Recommended, however walk-ins also accepted
