“Famous remarks are very seldom quoted correctly,” Simeon Stronsky, 1879-1948, No Mean City, 1944, ch. 38.
Many years ago, I recall walking past a fetching display of Rosenblum Zinfandels in a nice wine shop. Knowing of their good reputation, I grabbed a bottle and was absolutely entranced by its ebullient, wild intensity that night. I vowed to revisit the brand at some point.
Started in Alameda, Calif., in 1978 by Kent Rosenblum, the company ultimately began to call itself a “collection of small wineries rolled into one hanger in Alameda.” Very few of their properties are estate-grown by Rosenblum, but the company does rely on a long-standing set of relationships with reputable and attentive growers who share a meticulous focus on quality. What I found curious was that, by nature, Rosenblum Cellars does a fabulous job with its web of suppliers. The implication is that the company brings in finished lots of fine wine and does not produce its own product from raw grapes to pressing, fermenting, carefully handling, then bottling. What I actually believe happens is that Rosenblum is running a truly high-grade finished wine handling facility in Alameda near the city’s docks. Making a wine in a winery’s sole facility allows the company to label itself “Winery.” My understanding, as well as that of many fine retailers in town, is that Rosenblum’s calling itself “Cellars” indicates that the wine is not made on premise.
That being said, Rosenblum’s performance has been absolutely outstanding. More than 50 of their wines have gleaned scores of 90 or more in the Wine Spectator, and Rosenblum’s Monte Rosso 2006 Reserve was chosen by Wine News as one of the best Zinfandels in 2008. My own tasting experience echoes these accolades of Rosenblum, and here are my notes and scores, using my subjective “A”-“F” system:
1. Rosenblum 2007 Viognier (pronounced “Veenier”), Kathy’s Cuvee, $16.99. Medium straw color with heavy, almost cloying body. The nose was resplendent with heady notes of oak, butterscotch and spice. In the mouth, this beauty danced around with an eager, alluring richness. Clean finish. I’d recommend this with oriental food, salmon or nice companions on your summer patio. A
2. Rosemblum 2007 Zinfandel, Contra Costa County, $16.99. Brick ruby hue with medium-heavy body. Deep notes of chocolate and cherry on the nose with spice and nice depth. Hauntingly spicy and rich in the mouth with clean, long finish. A-
3. Rosenblum Zinfandel 2008, Paso Robles, $16.99. Dark ruby with heavy body. Complex, engagingly fruity nose that hints of lavender and raspberry. Bright and springingly complex on the palate with a nice, lingering finish. Great with grilled chicken. A-
4. Rosenblum 2007 Zinfandel, Contra Costa County, Carla’s Reserve, $18.99. Dark red, brooding color with heavy body and strong, complex notes of spice and chocolate on the nose. Deeply spicy with great depth and intensity with note of ripe cherries. Pleasantly acidic finish suggests a royal match with barbecue. A
5. Rosenblum 2008 Zinfandel, Paso Robles, Richard Sauret Reserve, $19.99. Brilliant, deep garnet color. The nose was tremendously deep with intensely spicy notes – the essence of great Zinfandel. On the palate, it displayed rich fruit and sweet intensity that improved with air time. Nice finish! A+
6. Rosenblum 2008 Zinfandel, Old Vines, Sonoma County, $18. Clear garnet color with heavy body. Deep, brooding nose with candied notes of cherries, wild berries and jam. Wildly complex! A
Many of Rosenblum’s wines may be found at Consumer Outlet Beverage Center in Hales Corners, Otto’s Sendik’s (now sold out of Rosenblum) and other fine wine shops.
Psst! Sendik’s in Mequon, ably staffed by Kevin Grace and his intrepid, well-educated cohorts is greatly expanding in two weeks.
Today’s clear winner was Rosenblum’s 2008 Zinfandel, Richard Sauret Reserve.
Today’s Price/Value winners are tied: the 2007 Viognier and the 2008 Old Vines, Sonoma County.
Fabulous job, Rosenblum! You remain a winner in my book.
