“An amiable weakness,” Henry Fielding, 1707-1754
One of my all-time favorite wines is Zinfandel. I love its wild flexibility and its almost feral, basic and jammy nature. Many people appreciate its adaptability to a variety of foods and occasions, from barbequing to conviviality with roasts – even turkey. I appreciate it with almost anything.
Research shows that the Zinfandel grape found its origin in Europe in 6000 BC. I cannot imagine many discriminating wine tastings back then. Other experts think, and DNA research confirms, that the Zinfandel grape is a direct descendant of Italy’s Primitivo grape. My own understanding from my Hungarian wine professor at Cornell was that Count Augoston Harasthy brought California’s first vines directly from his homeland of Hungary. They were so well-suited for their new world climate and soil that they grew like weeds, and today account for 10 percent of California’s vineyard plantings. I’m not aware of many similarly explosive pockets of this grape in the world, except perhaps in some areas of Croatia.
Since I did a column once before on this beguiling grape, I thought it would be fun to revisit it, so I headed over to Piggly Wiggly in Mequon and quickly grabbed four bottles, all priced at less than $20. I’ve noticed that some of the more exotic Zins show up on some retail shelves at prices well north of $20 and I’d advise you to steer clear of many of these inflationary monsters – they just don’t provide the value for their lofty prices.
So, here are my notes from today’s brief tasting:
1) Cellar No. 8, 2008, California, $9.99. Ebullient ruby robe with heavy body. The nose burst forth with spicy notes of clove, cassis, cherry and deep wild raspberry. In the mouth, I was entranced by peppery hints of cherry and sweet cranberry. Quite pleasant. A-
2) 7 Deadly Zins, 2008, Lodi, California, $15.99. Deep red color with heavy, cloying body. The nose boasted jammy flavors of blackberry overlaid on wild blueberry. On the palate, it strutted proudly with hints of blackberry jam, pepper and cherry. Long finish. A+, despite its relatively dear price.
3) Ravenswood Vintner’s Blend, 2008, California, $12.99. Purple hue with medium-heavy body and spicy nose of brambles, wild berry and brilliant cherry. In the mouth, it balanced exotic fruit with wild, jammy berries and a hint of chocolate. Long finish. B+
4) Rosenblum Vintner’s Cuvee XXX II, California, $9.99. Deep, pleasant red with heavy body. Deeply fruity whiffs of plum and raspberry. More smooth plum in the mouth combined with a whisper of dark cherry and pepper. Nice, clean finish. A-
Today’s winner was the 7 Deadly Zins, which was zinfully good.
Today’s Price/Value winner was the Cellar No. 8, which barely bested the Rosenblum Vintner’s Cuvee.
Cheers to you all, you wild bunch!
