“Wine that maketh glad the heart of man”, Psalm 104:15.
For decades, it was assumed that a Hungarian count brought Zinfandel vines to California in the 1820s. Back then, California was better suited for vines than it is today for business, and the plants flourished. Recent DNA testing has revealed that Zinfandel is either the same as the Italian grape Primitivo or the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski (What a mouthful!). Plantings of this high-performing vine continued apace, and Zinfandel today accounts for more than 23 percent of total vineyard territory – a virtual vinous invasion that has even earned it a nomination as California’s “historic wine.”
I collected a variety of samples and have laid out tasting notes, using my normal “A”-“F” rating scale. Most of these wines are available at a number of retailers such as Waterford wines, Otto’s and Sendik’s:
1. Rombauer 2007, $9.99: Light to medium body with elegant raspberry flavor notes. B
2. Storybook Mountain 2007, Calistoga, $30: Medium to heavy body, probably because its provenance is Calistoga in the Napa Valley. Slightly intense, almost medicinal nose and great berry notes, like many Calistoga wines. B
3. Cline 2007 California, $8: Light and elegant. A pleasure to quaff, and good with a variety of entrées. B+
4. Nalle Dry Creek 2006, $29.99: Production of 2,000 cases from its location in Healdsburg. Medium/intense nose with very elegant, restrained notes. Almost like a French Bordeaux. Very elegant. B+
5. Ridge Geyserville 2007, $35: (also sold at Discount Liquor).
Medium/heavy body with a rich, deep nose and briary, raspberry flavor notes. Great finish! A-
6. Turley 2007 Dogtown Ranch (a gift from a good friend). If you can find it, $49.99: Heavy, almost cloying body. Explosively rich nose with dancingly intense notes of plum and briar. Richly satisfying and hedonistic! A+
Note: After trying this incredible wine, I called the winery and tried to order a case, only to be told that there is a three-year waiting list. It’s worth the wait!
The winner: Turley. The best price/value Zinfandel: Cline.
