“Bacchus, ever fair and ever young,” Dryden, Alexander’s Feast, 1.54.
I have previously noted that Riesling’s growth is exponentially fabulous as the world begins to appreciate its subtle flowery sweetness and teasing acidity. Indeed, many industry professionals to whom I’ve spoken confirm the theory that it is growing as rapidly as the Gulf oil spill.
Germany, Riesling’s originator, should be sehr proud. Ach – gut! Generally considered to be one of the top three white wines along with Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, Riesling has seen its worldwide plantings grow to more than 120,000 acres. Based upon sales statistics and public acclimation of late, it should only grow.
Other than being firmly rooted in its home turf of Germany, Riesling is now omnipresent in France, Austria, the United States (and, in particular, the Pacific Northwest), Australia and New Zealand. The Finger Lakes region of New York state is a particularly good area for Rieslings.
As was the case in Part 1, my tasting of wines in Part 2 are reflected in my subjective scorings on an “A”-“F” basis, and are available at a number of better wine shops in town:
1. Eroica, 2008, $23.99: Named after Beethoven’s famed orchestral piece, this represents a joint effort between Washington’s Chateau Ste. Michelle winery and Dr. Ernst Loosen in Germany (so canny with a penchant for puns, he says, “Call me Ernie.”). I found a wonderfully expressive nose of flowers and apricots overlaid upon its pale straw color and light body. In the mouth, the wine gracefully exploded with loads of fruit, balance and exquisite acidity. Finishing elegantly, it said “More!” Later on, I couldn’t help it and had to savor it with crab cakes, a heavenly match. A+
2. Schlink Haus Riesling, 2008, Qualitatswein, Nahe Valley, Germany, $9.99: Many years ago, the German government instituted a strict growing and quality measuring policy. Qualitatswein denoted a high grade of performance, with Qualitatswein Mit Pradikat being the next level. This wine had pale color with light to medium body. Boasting a lightly flowery nose, it strutted some depth. It tasted elegantly fruity with notes of peaches and finished with clean acidity. A great patio selection! A
3. Helfrich Riesling, 2007, Vin D’Alsace, France, $13.99: I felt that this wine did not quite live up to the level of its predecessors. It started with a light vanilla hue and light body, with light fruit in the mouth evolving into a slightly acidic finish with a dash of tartness and bitterness. B
4. Leasingham Bin 7 Riesling, 2007, Clare Valley, South Australia, $14.99: With pale yellow color and light body, this had a subtle, quiet nose. On the palate, it displayed a lightly acidic middle and a somewhat short finish. A tad dry. B-
5. Villa Maria Riesling, 2009, Marlborough, New Zealand, $14.99: With a pale straw color and medium body, this Riesling showed hints of diesel oil (not uncommon with the grape variety). It was lightly fruity with light acid and a clean finish. B
Here are the results from my tastings in Part 1 and Part 2:
The winner by a mile – Eroica, followed closely by its stablemate, Chateau Ste. Michelle.
The price/value king was the Schlink Haus, a true bargain!
Note: Another nice entry from Lo Duca imports is Lo Duca Sweet Red, Italy, $6.99, at Piggly Wiggly in Mequon. I found this to have some exuberant effervescence with a velvety ruby color and medium body. I enjoyed the nose of wild blackberries and raspberries. It was nicely fruity with a clean finish and notes of plums. This little sister to Lo Duca’s Red Mamertino was terrific with Milwaukee’s Speed Queen barbecue sauce.
To a cheerfully sipping summer!
