“All systems go. Everything is A-OK,” John A. Powers, statement as public information officer for U.S. space program.
In the middle 1980s, Randall Graham joined a group of errant mavericks, dubbed the Rhone Rangers, to craft Rhone-style new world wines that both astonished and horrified the wine world (“Sacre bleu – what nerve,” the French huffed). By the late 1990s, Rhone varieties of grapes planted in California rocketed to 20,000 acres out of a total of 440,000 acres for the state, and the future looked bright indeed for these varietals.
I first met Randall Graham in the late ‘80s at a trade tasting of Bonny Doon’s wines. The assembled group was rather large, so I couldn’t readily discern Randall’s visage from amongst the crowd. Finally, I spotted a fellow in the corner who looked a bit like the Dr. Who of the ‘80s on BBC, with nice height, curled hair and omnipresently amused, sparkling eyes. I couldn’t tell if he was mentally laughing at life and at the tasting, or whether he was simply enjoying it. I opted immediately for “all of the above” and closed in for an enlightening and upbeat conversation with The Man. I was not disappointed, just as I’m not disappointed, but rather pleased, by today’s wines. Here are my tasting notes from six of Bonny Doon’s delights:
1) Ca’ Del Solo, 2008 Albarino, Monterey, $21. Light straw color with medium body. The nose is redolent of pears, tart apple and a whisper of banana. Note: these grapes were grown biodynamically, without fertilizers or pesticides, a movement that began with enlightened growers in France. Vineyard management also involves following moon patterns, burying cow horns filled with manure throughout the vineyard, and very strict discipline. Bonny Doon is assiduously moving in that direction at present. In the mouth, I found this wine to be crisp and rich, with mouth-filling notes of plump, dry fruit. Long, dry finish. B+
2) Bonny Doon Le Cigare Blanc, 2007, Beeswax Vineyard, White Wine of the Earth (Randallesque term, no doubt), $24. This wine was modeled after one of my favorite Rhone wines, Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, and is composed of 64.3 percent Rousanne and 35 percent Grenache Blanc. Rich, deep nose with almost spicy, generous helpings of pink grapefruit and suggestions of oak. On the palate, I caught melon, along with buttery signature notes again of oak. Nice, long finish. Quoth Randall, “Resistance is futile.” A
3) Bonny Doon Contra, 2009, Bonny Doon Vineyard, $14. Note: According to Randall, this wine was made mostly of “old fangled grape varieties in mostly older vineyards.” Deep purple color with heavy body. The nose presented a forward, generous and rich statement of smoky plum, raisin and dark cherry, with deeply satisfying spicy fruit. Richly fruity and mouth-filling, with long and satisfying finish. As they’d say in California, “Righteous, man!” A-
4) Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant, 2006, Red Wine of the Earth, $32. This version of France’s Chateauneuf-du-Pape was dark red with heavy, cloying body. The nose was deeply fruity and intense with background notes of leather. No wonder this scares the pants (not leather, presumably) off French Chateauneuf producers. Rich and fearless in the mouth, trailing off into an emphatic ending. A
5) Bonny Doon Syrah “Le Pousseur,” 2007, Santa Cruz, California, $20. Deep purple, almost inky hue with nicely heavy body. The nose boasted of nicely spicy, dark cherry and nice, intriguing depth (better than many people I know). Full and rich in the mouth, with fabulous finish. A+
6) Bonny Doon Vinferno, 2008, Sweet Wine of the Earth, $20. Rich, golden color with heavy body. At first, this looked like a first-rate French Sauternes. Explosive notes of deep peach and honey on nose. In the mouth, these wild flavors danced like a Dvorak symphony, ending with a long, hedonistic finish. Terrific with fruit tarts or fun cheese after a fine dinner. A+
It was tough to discern a winner today, since all six wines were so nice. If I had to hit one with a dart, I’d aim for the Syrah or the Vinferno.
You’re a tough act to follow, Randall. Perhaps the French should organize a field trip to Bonny Doon!
