“I had rather have a fool to make me merry than experience to make me sad,” Shakespeare: As You Like it, IV, i, 28.
The old maxim in the 1980s of matching red wines with red meats and white wines with white entrees has been dramatically reshaped over the years to the extent that many of New York’s and America’s top steak houses now are selling as much Cabernet as Chardonnay.
Wine and food matching has been long and hotly debated in both heaven and earth, I’d imagine, so I thought I’d pass along a bit of earthly advice, based upon my research and personal experiences:
– Historically, regional cuisines and wines have evolved into bedmates. Italy’s rich, herbal tomato sauces are magnifico with Chiantis, Sangioveses, Brunellos, Nero D’Avilas, Montepulciano D’Abruzzos and Barolos, while the Pacific Northwest in America marvelously matches wild salmon with Oregon Pinot Noir.
– Most cheeses, as discussed in an earlier column, joyously celebrate a match with many white wines. The singular exception, I feel, is that stronger or blue-veined cheeses often need a richer, heavier red or a Port for a heady matching.
– Try Sauvignon Blanc with goat cheese or a variety of other applications that indicate light white friends.
– For asparagus, employ a fruit-forward wine like a Riesling, Gewurztraminer or Gruner Veltiner. These same wines also play well with many Asian cuisines, and Gewurztraminer is chemical perfection with Indian food.
– Avoid dry red wines with sweet food, as it will be the equivalent of an I.E.D. at a party.
– Some chicken preparations call for a simple complimentary red. Pinot Noir comes to me (Or, if you want to be truly daring, trot out a Pinot at Thanksgiving).
– The dancingly frothy celebratory nature of champagne or sparkling wine goes with practically anything.
– Chardonnay, depending upon its lightness or heaviness, can dance like a star from entrees like lobster or capon or, in some cases, turkey.
– Lamb is not baaad with Bordeaux, Burgundy, Pinot Noir or Syrah.
– The fruity, zesty nature of Zinfandel can truly be muy bueno with Mexican food.
– Steak with either Cabernet, a rich Pinot Noir, Rioja, Bordeaux or Merlot (even Malbec), is almost a match made in heaven.
– Speaking of heaven, sweet desserts like apple pie, tarte tatin or creme brulee go beautifully with many sweet wines like Sauternes or late harvest Riesling.
– Many menus can be greatly coordinated by matching delicate wines to delicate dishes and heavy wines to heavier dishes.
– As always, a good wine retailer can be invaluable in your quest. Consider talent such as Mike at Consumer Beverage Outlet in Hales Corners, Discount Liquor, Downer Wines, Grasch’s, Sendik’s (Kevin in Mequon is an all-star) or Ben at Waterford Wine on Brady Street.
You are often feeling your way along as you play with food and wine matching, and learning is incremental. Have fun and create your own rules! Remember, as Emerson said, “A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.” Expand your horizons.
