“My well beloved hath a vineyard in a very fruitful hill,” Holy Bible: Song of Solomon – Isaiah 18.
In late January, I wrote a column on Argentinean wines, particularly dwelling on Malbecs. To refresh our memory, this blending grape in Bordeaux, France, migrated to Argentina, where it met up with sublime soil and sunshine and struck an instant love affair. Then it grew both exuberantly and explosively. Truly, it was a match made in heaven to the wine world’s delight today. Back in January, I predicted that Malbec would be a heady, growing, permanent player on the quality wine scene. A panoply of practically perfect entries has confirmed that, and Malbec today enjoys an ebullient following. I still maintain that the best is yet to come for this alluring beauty.
Just how good are today’s Malbecs on the market? There are so many shooting stars that I shot out to Consumer Beverage Outlet in Hales Corners, where its omnipresent, enthusiastic owner, Mike Praedel, guided me to some beguiling candidates for a taste-off.
I decided not to assign my customary “A”-“F” grading to these wines because many of them were so good. Rather, I thought it would be more fun to take a playful Olympian approach to this challenging grading task by granting subjective gold, silver and bronze medals, however symbolic but far more affordable from a metallic point of view.
Many of these wines began to look like medal contenders as my tasting began – such was the level of their quality. Only toward the end were the top winners anointed with great vinous fanfare.
Here are my tasting notes, followed by the medal announcements. Hold your applause, please. Then again…
1. Elsa Bianchi, 2008, $7.99: Deep ruby robe with medium body. A fruity nose with notes of blackberry and plum carried through its fruity middle and clean, slightly austere finish. Nice!
2. Alamos, the wines of Catena, 2009, $8.99: Rich ruby robe (alliteration time) with heavy body. A deep, brooding nose held layers of promise. The body was similarly deeply fruity and intense with a long, pleasant finish. Rocking chair candidate.
3. Altos las Hormigas, 2009, $9.99: Deep reddish color bordering on purple. Heavy body with deeply promising notes of blackberry jam and cherry that smoothly evolve into a clean, slightly tannic finish.
4. La Posta, Angel Palucci Vineyard, 2007, $14.99: Dark red velvet color with heavy body. Racy, spicy nose inviting introspection with hints of chocolate and cherry. Nice deep fruit with good balance and elegant, long finish.
5. Tierra Divina, Old Vine Malbec, 2007, $14.99: Inky red color with heavy body. Deep, brambly nose with suggestions of blackberry. Freshly fruity middle with clean and briskly fruity finish.
And now, the envelopes, please. The medals:
Gold – La Posta, Angel Palucci Vineyard, 2007.
Silver – Alamos, the wines of Catena, 2009 (nice price, too).
Bronze – Altos Las Hormigas 2009.
Honorable Mention (with great price/value, too) – Elsa Bianchi. Buy! Buy!
Cheers to the Marvelous Malbec Mavens (more alliteration).
