“No mask like open truth to cover lies,
As to go naked is the best disguise,” William Cosgreve, The Double-Dealer
Italians love to laugh at American winemakers and their abiding love affair with sundry types of wood. Some choose various types of oak, each of which imparts its own level of seasoning to a wine. One winemaking friend of mine, Bruce Nyers (formerly with Joseph Phrlps Vineyards and now owner of Nyers Vineyards), states that Chardonnay, for instance, is a fairly benign fermented juice, and the application of oak in various degrees will add a measure of pleasing complexity. Some Chardonnays will pick up a fist full of butterscotchy notes from the correctly applied oak. Another friend, the legendary and crusty pioneer Joe Heitz from Heitz Cellars, used to insist on at least two years of quality oak as an integral part of aging his signature Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons, which were wonderfully heady and deep.
Stony Hill Vineyards in the Napa Valley, on the other hand, shuns the over-application of oak, greatly preferring their laid-back and subtle style. Even famed French winemaker Louis Michel tends to minimize oak exposure in his marvelous Chablis, often opting for stainless steel for fermentation.
Enter Simply Naked wines, which are vinified without any oak content whatsoever. Winemaker Ryan Flock feels that his wines should be fermented and handled in stainless steel, not oak, thereby seconding the approach of many an enlightened winemaker both here and in France. A veritable panoply of awards have noted and recognized his quality approach to winemaking, and my curiosity got the best of me – I simply couldn’t resist a sampling of a few of his wines. Here are my tasting notes, based upon a recent Simply Naked tasting session (garsh – that really may not sound too proper):
1) Simply Naked Unoaked Pinot Gigio, 2010, California, $9.99. Barely off-white with medium body. The nose was quite subtle, with hints of nearly ripe pears shuffling with a whisper of austere Granny Smith apples. Some fruity notes tensed with lightly bracing acidity carried through the palate, finishing pleasantly and almost sweetly. A
2) Simply Naked Unoaked Chardonnay, 2010, California, $9.99. Clear vanilla hue with heavy body. A light sniff revealed subtle background notes of apricot and melon. A tad richer than the Pinot Grigio. As I tasted it, I initially wondered where the butterscotch was, but it wasn’t – it was replaced by creamy and moderately rich and elegant fullness. Not a typical Chardonnay, but with a long and fun finish. A-
3) Simply Naked Unoaked Merlot, 2010, California, $9.99. Brilliant ruby color with heavy body. The nose subtly exploded with cassis, plum, black cherry and blackberry. On the palate, I found more black cherry dancing with a hint of mocha. Seems to want to beg for a little tannin, but it was wonderfully pleasant without it. A
4) Simply Naked Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010, California, $9.99. Royal purple robe with heavy body. Deep, rich nose was profound and forward with jammy notes, begging for porch time with its mellowness tempered with a tad of earthiness. The absence of oak was particularly evident, unlike many Cabernets. In the mouth, I picked up blackberry, black cherry and a whisper of cinnamon. Clean, long finish. A class act! A+
Today’s clear winner was the Unoaked Cabernet Sauvignon.
At these price points, I feel, all deserve Price/Value awards.
Way to go, you unclothed beauties!
