California Cool

“As long as you know that most men are like children, you know everything,” Coco Chanel, 1883-1971.

The Chardonnay grape, as far as we know it, began strutting its stuff in France, where it was the backbone of a gaggle of wines, including Pouilly Fuisse, St. Veran, Chablis and some of its great white burgundies like Momtrachet, Chevalier Montrachet, Puligny Montrachet and Chassagne Montrachet.

Migrating to California, the grape took off as it enjoyed the combination of abundant sunshine, cooler temperatures, moderated moisture and lean, challenging soils that mimicked Burgundy. In the 1960s and 1970s, a literal vinous gold rush was in full flush, predated by a decade by pioneers like Stony Hill Vineyard, one of my favorites. Today, there are more than 1,000 Chardonnays produced annually by 1,200 wineries cultivating more than 100,000 acres.

I selected my tasting wines from Consumer Outlet Beverage Center at 5313 S. 108th St. Run by a sublimely educated and energetic Mike Praedel, the shop boasts a terrific collection of interesting and reasonable wines from around the world. My specifications were simple: All wines had to cost less than $20 per bottle. Here are my tasting notes, scored on my typical “A”-“F” scale:

1. Heron 2007, California, $9.99: Some initial notes of Sulphur Dioxide that blew off with time. Light body with slightly spicy oakiness. Light depth with some notes of butterscotch. Long finish. B-

2. Valley of the Moon 2008, unoaked, $12.99: Medium body with delicate notes of flowers, complexity and a kiss of nutmeg. Long finish. Nice summer sipper! B

3. Acacia 2004 Carneros, $18.99: I visited this winery in the ’80s and find great similarity today. A deep, rich nose with nice complexity and good fruity notes. Long, rich finish with a butterscotch and caramel robe. B+

4. Clos Pegase 2007, Mitsuko’s Vineyard, $17.99: Straw yellow hue with a medium, complex nose and intriguing depth. Nice, complex middle and long, elegant finish. A

5. Chalone Vineyard 2008, Monterey County, $9.99: Heavy body overlaid on light color and a lightly complex nose. Starts with light middle but finishes with complex, spicy notes. B+

6. Chateau St. Jean 2008, Sonoma, $10.99: Margo Van Staaveran has replaced my winemaker friend Richard Arrowood and is continuing his winning streak. Pale vanilla color with medium body. Complex, deep nose that plays with notes of toast, etc. Deep, rich middle and long finish. A-

7. Stony Hill 2003, Napa Valley, $30: (The one exception to my price rule. I bought this from the winery in 2005.) Pale, almost clear color. Light to medium body. Nose carries hints of freshly mowed grass and fresh herbs. Medium-rich middle with complexity, spiciness and light acidity. Elegant! A+

Today’s clear winner was Stony Hill. For Price/value, I chose the Chalone.

A couple of closing thoughts: First, because there is an ocean of wine produced annually around the world (with more coming on stream in Argentina, etc.), this gasping supply has forced down prices, in my view. Many wineries that were able to charge practically anything in the past (Chalone included) now must be inclined to moderate their prices. That is what makes Chalone’s price so appealing today.

Second, Stony Hill, the first kid on the block in the Napa Valley, has been producing its lean and age-worthy Chardonnays since the 1950s. I think they need at least five to 10 years to strut their stuff, unlike many Chardonnays. To my knowledge, their Chardonnays are not in many stores but can be purchased from the winery. You can try to order them at www.stonyhillvineyard.com or by e-mailing info@stonyvineyard.com. If you can snag them, you won’t be sorry. You’ll thank me for the referral!

Cheers!