I’ve found Milwaukee to be a city of contrasts. The industrial feel of the Historic Third Ward District offers a different residential experience than the tree-lined streets near the UWM campus. The city’s eastern border, formed by the sparkling blue waters of Lake Michigan, is easily distinguishable from suburbs like Wauwatosa and Greendale that make up Milwaukee’s western boundary. Even downtown, the Spanish modernist style of Calatrava’s Milwaukee Art Museum expansion offers a sharp distinction from the German Renaissance Revival style of the Milwaukee City Hall.
For my first Bar Time column I wanted to look beyond Milwaukee’s many contrasts and select a theme that unites its residents. One idea overwhelmingly topped the others: baseball. Unlike people living in New York or my hometown of Chicago, Milwaukee’s inhabitants can proudly wear their Brewers jerseys without fearing excessive taunting for supporting the “wrong” side. As a way to bond with fellow Milwaukeeans before or after a game, or even when you want to just quench your thirst, step up to the plate at one of these Brewers bars near Miller Park.
From the moment I gripped the Louisville Slugger door handle to walk inside Kelly’s Bleachers (5218 W. Bluemound Rd.), I knew I had entered baseball nirvana. Located in the quiet, residential Story Park neighborhood, Kelly’s light brown-colored wood and green color scheme made me feel like I was inside Miller Park instead of a mile north of it. Black-and-white photos of past Brewers greats, Milwaukee Braves trading cards and pennants line the walls. Eliminating my twinge of doubt of the Brewers supremacy here, though, were the six (out of seven total) televisions playing the Brewers-Astros game at the bar just to the right of Kelly’s entrance. Beer flows freely here, marked by over 10 selections on tap. My Leinie’s Honey Weiss went down smooth. While I found the service impeccable, here’s one piece of advice: Come prepared to respond to the staff’s lively remarks. My bartender’s feisty personality matched the “Shut up and drink!” plastered across the back of her T-shirt.
If you’re looking for the classic neighborhood sports pub, where the smoke hangs thick and the staff watches the game as much as it serves drinks, head over to Mollica’s Pub (4631 W. National Ave, West Milwaukee). True to its persona, beer is the drink of choice here. When I asked the bartender if the pub had any house specialities, her response was “not really, just cheap drinks.” Thankfully, she remained true to her word. Unlike Kelly’s, though, the Brewers must compete with the Packers, Bucks and even NASCAR for sports memorabilia adorning its walls. If Prince Fielder can’t connect with the ball or The Brew Crew is falling prey to the Cubs during the I-94 Series, take your mind off the game by shooting pool or throwing darts in the pub’s back room.
Just a short walk (or teeter, depending) down the street from Mollica’s is 4th Base (5117 W National Ave.), whose clientele outnumbered the other two bars’ combined. While the blue and gold bar stools – not to mention the name – proved baseball is the name of the game at 4th Base, sports memorabilia of all kinds filled every inch of every wall here. Framed photographs of athletes from Joe DiMaggio to Michael Jordan hung proudly, and jerseys from Charles Barkley to Dan Marino hand from the ceiling. The service here stood out even more than the classic rock hits playing loudly from the speakers. My server, Robert, took the time to learn our names and stopped by later for some conversation. Prices here were steeper than Kelly’s or Mollica’s ($4.50 for a glass of Blue Moon), but the Brewers camaraderie felt stronger. When Johnny Estrada hit a grand slam in the bottom of the sixth inning, the entire bar reverberated in a chorus of cheers and applause.
As the Brewers sit comfortably atop the National League Central division, stop into one of Miller Park’s neighboring watering holes to grab a drink with your fellow fans. My parents may have raised me to cheer for a certain Chicago team (whose name will go unmentioned), but after visiting these three spots, I feel I can proudly root for The Brew Crew and satisfy my thirst at the same time.
