“What’s the use of worrying? It was never worthwhile,” George H. Powell, 1880-1951, Pack up Your Troubles in Your Old Kit-Bag, 1915.
In 1895, Edorado Seghesio planted his first vineyard in the Alexander Valley in California. Since then, the family has steadily added more than 400 acres, and many of the vines are currently 25 to 30 years old with some, like the Old Vines, eligible for AARP. Yields are kept low, at or below four tons per acre, to emphasize fruit and intensity. Many of Seghesio’s wines have garnered great recognition, and the Rockpile Zinfandel has been praised by the Wine Spectator, with a score of 92 points. After my recent tasting, I would easily add my praise to theirs. Winemaker Ted Seghesio has done stellar work, and I applaud his efforts.
Wisconsin was the first state outside California to embrace Seghesio, and sales are first cabin. Here are my tasting notes, based upon my recent pleasurable exploration:
1. 2010 Pinot Grigio, Russian River, $20. Barely off-white with medium body. Its flowery, rich nose displayed its Russian River pedigree, with notes of citrus and butterscotch overlaid on tart apples. In the mouth, it was much like a Pinot Grigio but with more depth, much like an Oregon Pinot Gris. Long and gently acidic. Gentle finish. A-
2. 2010 Arneis, Russian River Valley, California, $20. This signature wine was almost pure white, with heavy, cloying body, displaying its regional origin. Complex notes of butterscotch, clover and oak drifted graciously over the nose. In the mouth, I found a rich entry, which blossomed into a rich, layered structure of apples and butter toffee. B+
3. 2009 Zinfandel, Sonoma, Sonoma County, $22. Dark ruby with medium-to-heavy body. Playfully spicy nose dancing with drifts of chocolate and cherry. Deep, saucy and rich middle with long, zingy finish. A-
4. 2008 Zinfandel, Old Vines, Sonoma County, $32. Dark, brooding purple hue. Heavy, inky body. Spicy, deeply complex nose takes no prisoners with intense berry overlaid on tremendous notes of slightly sour Door County Cherry (sounds heretical, aina?). Rich middle eases into graceful finish. A
5. 2009 Zinfandel, Rockpile, $35. Brilliant ruby brightness with heavy body. Hedonistically spicy and deeply complex nose is typical of a racy and great Zinfandel, replete with brambly raspberries and promises of great fun on the palate. That promise was met mightily and playfully! A
6. 2009 Zinfandel, Home Ranch, Alexander Valley, $35. Bright deep red color with heavy body. The nose was subtle, bordering on explosively complex with hints of cherry and chocolate overlaid with wild blackberry. Pure fun in the mouth! A+
Today’s clear winner was the Home Ranch Zinfandel.
Comparatively, the Price/Value winner was the Sonoma County Zinfandel, a joy at $22.
Cheers to you, Ted Seghesio and gang. You’re doing an outstanding job!
