Airport Dining
Last Monday, when that bizarre snowstorm pummeled the Lake Michigan side of the city, the restaurant Nonna Bartolotta’s had its best day yet. Haven’t heard of this place? It’s the new Italian joint that opened at Mitchell International Airport. But before I get to the meat of this write-up, I should note that you need a boarding pass to get to Nonna’s (located in the Midwest Terminal, Concourse D). But say, you’re heading to San Francisco and don’t want something resembling fast food. You have an alternative. Even if you’re not flying out on Midwest Airlines, if you’ve got your boarding pass, you can get to the Midwest Terminal and then on to a plate of oven-roasted salmon or chicken saltimbocca. Milwaukee’s Bartolotta Restaurant Group developed the Nonna concept for SSP America, a company that owns and operates restaurants and cafes (like the new Alterra Coffee kiosks at Mitchell) in airports across the nation. Bartolotta, among other things, trained the staff and consulted on the menu, which includes four pizzas, four pastas and a few entrées, including a steak. Since it’s inside an airport, the restaurant opens at the crack of dawn (when you can get things like frittatas and French toast) and stays open well into the evening. There’s also a full bar and a wine list. Going back to what I said about Nonna’s busiest day happening during a snowstorm, it makes sense. Flights get delayed, people are stranded. What else is there to do but eat?
The Winds of Change
About a month ago, Jerry Garcia joined the staff of 11-year-old Hotel Metro (411 E. Mason St., 414-225-3270). I’m talking about Milwaukee chef Jerry Garcia, best known for his work at the late Coast Restaurant.(The Grateful Dead joke must get really old.) As the hotel’s executive chef, Garcia is revamping the kitchen and preparing to roll out a new dinner menu. Built into the “Midwestern fusion” theme of the menu is an emphasis on organic, “all-natural” ingredients, he tells me. Once he’s got the dinner menu ironed out, he’ll turn to lunch.
Four Hours of “Happy”
The economy is putting a damper on most everyone’s social life. Restaurants can’t help but be feeling the pinch. The recession has therefore spawned such restaurant specials as Sake Tumi’s happy hour tapas menu. Each small plate goes for the low, low price of $4. You can order salmon ceviche, “dancing” shrimp (a shrimp salad, of sorts, served in a crispy cup), “tiger’s eyes” (grilled squid steak stuffed with smoked salmon and avocado), crab Rangoon, seared peppered tuna with hot unagi sauce, and others. The menu runs Monday-Friday, 2-6 p.m. To keep your thirst quenched – and some bills in your wallet – items on the drink menu run half-price during happy hour (714 N. Milwaukee St., 414-224-7253).
Green Day
I’m wearing a green bracelet today. It’s probably a little early to be donning green for St. Patrick’s Day, but not too early to make a reservation for a special St. Pat’s dinner. In fact, the earlier you do it, the better. Brocach Irish Pub’s five-course holiday meal is set for Monday, March 16th at 7 p.m. It starts with a smoked salmon and baby arugula salad and ends with bread and butter pudding. In between those courses, they’ll serve Cashel blue cheese and caramelized onion tart, Ballymaloe oyster soup, and bacon and cabbage (whiskey-glazed Irish bacon, braised Brussels sprouts and garlic roasted potatoes). The cost is $50 per person. E-mail Brocach co-owner Cliff McDonald for a reservation: cliff@brocach.com.
Can’t get enough dining? I chat about restaurants every week with Jane Matenaer and Kidd O’Shea on “The Mix.” Listen at 6:10 a.m. – a new time! – on Friday, March 6th. That’s 99.1 WMYX-FM.
