Suburban Big Easy
Some observant people out there have asked me what happened to Roux Brothers, the tiny N’Awlins-style joint in Shorewood that quietly left the premises (1808 E. Capitol Dr.). Well, with Mardi Gras less than a week away, it’s a good time to mention where owner John Smurawa is these days – in Cedarburg, in the process of reopening Roux Brothers. The new place won’t be serving folks before April at the earliest, so you’ll have to wait to get your jambalaya, muffuletta and beignet fix. Smurawa has the old Fork Cafe location right on Cedarburg’s main drag (N61 W497 Washington Ave.). It has two floors and seating for about 70. He will serve lunch and dinner, a Friday fish fry, brunch on Saturdays and Sundays. The menu will drip with Louisiana charm. Expect the expected red beans and rice, étouffée and jambalaya. Also the unexpected: oysters Bienville (rich, rich, rich), Louisiana barbecued pork nachos, bananas Foster cheesecake, sweet potato crème brûlée. To drink: Hurricanes, Sazeracs and more. That’s all I’ve got for now.
Mardi Hearty
Are you distracted by thoughts of Fat Tuesday? (When you’re a restaurant critic, every day is Fat Tuesday.) People of Polish descent celebrate Paczki Day. “Paczki” is also what Poles call the jelly-filled pastries eaten on Fat Tuesday. Polonez is busy this time of year, taking orders for paczki (4016 S. Packard Ave., 482-0080). If you want ’em, they’re offering them in two flavors – strawberry and prune. They’re $9/pound. Call right this second if you want to place an order. They’ll be ready for you to collect on Fat Tuesday (Feb. 20).
So you’ve gotten the message that Tuesday is about lack of restraint. Restaurants will do their best to help you in this pursuit. Mardi Gras is one of them. And here, the food train starts this Friday and runs through Tuesday (7926 W. Capitol Dr., 527-4727). Mardi Gras specializes in Cajun/Creole and Southern food. For five days, it will also specialize in buffets. The Mardi Gras buffet will have sliced ham, baked and fried chicken, hot wings, red beans and rice, mac and cheese, mashed potatoes and lots more. The cost is $14.95. The feast will extend to your ears, with live music on all five nights. Notably, Manty Ellis Jazz Ensemble (Feb. 16, 5:30-8:30 p.m.) and Mama Digdown New Orleans Brass Band (Feb. 19, 5-9 p.m.).
I mentioned Elliot’s Bistro last week for a Valentine’s Day of French proportions (2321 N. Murray Ave., 273-1488). I have to mention what’s happening for Mardi Gras, which, at Elliot’s, is two weeks long. Special menu items include turtle soup, frog legs, jambalaya, crawfish bisque, catfish po’ boy and a traditional crawfish boil where they dump the whole boil – fish, corn, potatoes and all – on your table. Now that I would like to see. Live entertainment, too. This Saturday (Feb. 17), it’s Big Nick’s Zydeco Reduction. On Fat Tuesday, The Old Style Unlisted Jazz Band is in the house (8-10 p.m.). And Robin Pluer (of Paul Cebar and the Milwaukeeans fame) performs with Stas Venglevsky and Peter Roller on Saturday, Feb. 24.
Kimball in Kohler
Christopher Kimball has made the bow tie his trademark. Foodies know him as the editor of Cook’s Illustrated, the magazine that reveals the secrets of flaky biscuits, rates saucepans and doesn’t accept advertising. (He also appears on the PBS cooking show, “America’s Test Kitchen.”) Kimball is coming to the American Club in Kohler at the end of next week (Feb. 23-24) for America’s Test Kitchen Weekend. On Saturday (Feb. 24), there’s a book signing in the Kohler Design Center (101 Upper Rd., Kohler). Kimball will sign copies of his America’s Test Kitchen cookbooks, answer questions and share trade secrets. The books will be for sale as well, and it sounds like it’s an RSVP-preferred type of event (call 800-344-2838). If you choose to stay and poke around The Shops at Woodlake (725Q Woodlake Road), a complimentary wine and cheese tasting is taking place the same day at Woodlake Market (5:30-6:30 p.m.). You’ll taste reds and whites from Woodbridge Wines (Lodi region in California) and a selection of cheeses.
Can’t get enough dining? I chat about restaurants every Friday with Jane Matenaer and Kidd O’Shea on “The Mix.” Listen between 8 and 9 a.m. on February 16. That’s 99.1 WMYX-FM.
And check out Events Editor Julie Sensat Waldren’s picks for the best events in arts and entertainment on This Weekend.
