Until very recently, my husband and I, both native Milwaukeeans, had committed a grave oversight: We loved to yap about the magic of Midwest summers to out-of-towners, but we rarely entertained the area when plotting vacations of our own. Instead, our shared wanderlust led us to far-off destinations that left our friends and family members perplexed. The feasibility – and, to be honest, sheer expense – of these trips eventually snapped us back to reality, leaving us without a single idea.
And so, when planning our summer vacation last year, Steve and I turned to our harshest critics – our kids, Lily and Lincoln, then ages 5 and 7 – for suggestions. Their feedback? Our son hoped to avoid a plane ride (cha-ching!), and our daughter insisted that our itinerary involve treasure hunts. (To her credit, any tiny object is deemed a “treasure.”)
The wheels started to turn, and the thought of circling Lake Michigan via car began to evolve. Plus, the weeklong itinerary included vacation must-haves for my husband and me, too, like natural beauty, vibrant culinary scenes and numerous breweries. He was sold – and so were our kids. The planning commenced.
I’m happy to say the result was everything I hoped it would be – and then some: a dreamy, eight-day road trip filled with remarkable natural beauty, local foods that left us both nourished and inspired, one too many craft beers, and a healthy dose of sibling bickering that was expected, but perhaps best forgotten. Read on to learn more about what we did, where we stayed and ate, and which parks we visited.
It’s time to pick your Milwaukee favorites for the year!
Day 1: From Cream City to Marquette, a progressive Northern Michigan charmer
Steve and Lily are early risers, always eager to conquer the day, while Lincoln and I prefer to ease into the morning, so we compromised on Day 1 and aimed for an 8:30 a.m. departure. The first leg of our drive was two hours due north to Green Bay. We leaned into all things road trip and kicked off the ride with car games. Our kiddos are prone to motion sickness so screens are rarely an option, but a game – and preferably one that involves looking outside the car, not in – is always a hit. On this trip, a favorite was an alphabet hunt, in which we scanned signs and license plates to find the letters of the alphabet, from A to Z.
Our first destination was Bay Beach Wildlife Sanctuary, a 535-acre wildlife refuge. Admission is free, and Lincoln and Lily covet any excuse to observe wildlife, so a stopover felt like an elevated rest stop. We watched a pair of otters play and saw three wolves sunbathing, safely set back within their enclosure. Steve’s favorite animal is the wolf, so both he and the kids were downright giddy. After an hour or so of exploration, we drove to nearby Hinterland Brewery for a bite and a cold brew. (Is there anything better than that first vacation beer?) At the end of our meal, Steve realized he had left his phone at the wildlife sanctuary, so I did as any good road trip mom would do while he doubled back to retrieve it: I ordered a second beer and perched myself on the outdoor patio, and let our kiddos race up and down the nearby sledding hill, eliminating any extra wiggles before loading them back in the car.
Back on the road, we kept the kids settled with the promise of an afternoon treat: a stop at The Ice Cream Barn in Iron Mountain for a quick scoop. It was another hour and a half or so to Marquette, so we arrived just before dinnertime and checked into the historic Landmark Inn – a tad pricey, but with an unbeatable location. We naively made the mistake of not having any dinner reservations and were faced with hourlong wait times and hangry children, but eventually stumbled upon an open table at Iron Bay Restaurant and Distillery, just blocks from the hotel. I ordered the Lake Superior whitefish tacos and my husband a smashburger, and we reflected on the day. Only a few snafus (foremost that misplaced phone), and five hours of drive time successfully logged – and without a drop of kid vomit. (Thank you, Zofran.) We were off to a good start!
Day 2: Beers, books, beauty and more in Marquette
A night or two in Marquette, a port city known for its iron ore shipping history, scenic beauty and progressive charm, came highly recommended. We began the day at the downtown farmers market, where farmers, artisans and local shoppers convene every Saturday morning, mid-May through mid-November. The vibe was decidedly welcoming and kid-friendly,
and we indulged in savory pastries and strawberry lemonades. Next, we wandered toward the waterfront, just a few blocks east, and stumbled upon a playground. The kids were happily occupied so we decided to forgo a planned visit to Presque Isle Park, a forested peninsula with views of Lake Superior and the rolling terrain of the Upper Peninsula, but heard good things about its 2-mile walking loop.
By lunchtime, a rainstorm rolled in, so we set out for popular brunch spot Bodega and a proper meal. The rain arrived just as we were leaving the restaurant, but, lucky for us, a beer beckoned – from Blackrocks Brewery, across the street. The taproom’s interior was packed as we’d expected and the atmosphere lively, but we managed to secure two spots for our kids and settled in. The rain slowed within an hour or so, so we ventured to a second brewery, Ore Dock Brewing. (This is the UP, after all!)
The walk between the two breweries is relatively quick and lined with charming boutiques, including Snowbound Books, a new and used bookstore oozing with charm, so we did a bit of browsing, much to Steve’s delight.
Ore Dock offered a bit more space for the kiddos to roam – and yard games, too. Live music was a happy surprise and could be heard both indoors and out. When hunger struck, we headed to Vierling Restaurant and Marquette Harbor Brewery. Beer is brewed in house, reservations are accepted only by phone or in person, and the interior pays homage to the eatery’s 140-plus-year history. The whitefish piccata, paired with a malty American blonde ale, was especially tasty.
Day 3: A national lakeshore, more beer (and burgers), and an unexpected St. Ignace gem
We woke early to devastating news: Our beloved town, Wauwatosa, had experienced historic flash flooding the night prior. A neighbor confirmed that our home was dry, but many of our friends were navigating significant damage. Much of the morning was a juggling act – of checking in with friends, packing up our hotel room, and brainstorming how to communicate the news to our kids. But alas, the itinerary called: We had reserved a 10 a.m. boat cruise to tour Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, about 45 minutes east of Marquette, so we grabbed a quick breakfast from the hotel lobby and piled back into the car.
The national lakeshore hugs the south shore of Lake Superior, and its sandstone cliffs are best seen from the water, hence the boat cruise. There are guided kayak tours, too, but, with two small kids alongside us, we welcomed the opportunity to exert very little physical effort and simply cruise. The weather was overcast, but the clouds did little to dampen the natural beauty of the shoreline and the vividness of Lake Superior’s turquoise waters.
After the tour, we popped into The Driftwood, an easygoing, kid-friendly cafe and deli with vegan and vegetarian fare in downtown Munising. It shares a building with By George Brewing, so Steve and I each ordered a crisp IPA to enjoy while we waited for our food to arrive. We lured the kids back into the car with gas station snacks and continued east to St. Ignace – and to our nephew, who was studying boat building in nearby Cedarville.
He met us for burgers and fries at the cash-only Clyde’s Drive-In, a must-stop, and insisted we end the evening at Zak and Mac’s Chocolate Haus, an ice cream parlor and candy shop in downtown St. Ignace. Founded in 1671, the city is one of the oldest continuously inhabited European settlements in the U.S. – and worthy of a few hours of exploration, should time allow.
Like Marquette, St. Ignace is also a port city (but on Lake Huron), and the gateway to Mackinac Island, our next destination. We opted not to stay on the island, though, and checked into the recently opened Hampton Inn, per the advice of our nephew. I was admittedly hesitant to book a chain hotel, but our two-night stay at the lakefront property was our favorite of the trip.
Our ground-floor room opened directly to the beach, allowing the kids to run free, happily collecting seashells and crab claws – all immediately declared treasures by Lily – as we took in the sunset from our patio, nightcap in hand. After a somber morning, it was such a lovely reset – and a reminder that, as cliche as it sounds, home is wherever we are together.
Day 4: Fudge, forts and fun on car-free Mackinac Island
Ferries to Mackinac Island depart seasonally from downtown St. Ignace, every 15 to 30 minutes, so we boarded an earlier-morning passage to ensure enough time for a full day’s adventures. (If you want to stay on the island, I’ve heard glowing firsthand reviews of the Grand Hotel and the recently renovated The Inn at Stonecliffe – both admittedly splurgy, but well worth it, I’m told.)
Once a sacred Native American site and strategic British-American military outpost, Mackinac Island is car-free, and no chain hotels or restaurants are allowed, creating a vibe wholly reminiscent of a bygone era. We chose to explore by foot, but you can book a horse-drawn carriage ride and reserve a bicycle, too. After popping into shops downtown and sampling a few bites of island-famous fudge, we settled into a booth at Patrick Doud’s Irish Pub and noshed on Reuben sandwiches and locally sourced whitefish dip. And pints of Guinness, of course.
We had intentionally left the afternoon unplanned and my history-loving husband had hoped to explore Fort Mackinac, a site steeped in British-American history, but we instead let the kids choose our adventure. My son led us to the 18-hole miniature golf course at the Grand, while our daughter requested a visit to the Pink Pony, where she personalized a handbag with sparkly patches. If time – and patience – had allowed, a scenic hike within Mackinac Island State Park, which encompasses more than 80% of the island, topped my must-see list. Many noteworthy landmarks, including Point Lookout, the Richard and Jane Manoogian Mackinac Art Museum and Fort Holmes, are located within the park.
We ended our day on the island with one final, no-fuss meal – at Mackinac Island Pizza Co., a quaint, Detroit-style pizzeria – before departing for the mainland and our hotel.
Day 5: Butterflies and the beach in Traverse City, plus a memorable meal
The hotel’s continental breakfast – and its make-your-own waffle bar – was an absolute hit with the kids, so, as overtired parents do, we used it to our advantage: “Yes, you can top your 8 a.m. waffles with whipped cream and chocolate chips, if you promise not to complain during our three-hour drive to Traverse City.” (The bribe bought us about one hour of silence and only a handful of sibling squabbles to break up, which we considered victories.) It was clear Lily and Lincoln would eventually need to stretch their legs a bit, though, and it was misty outside, so we turned to Google and discovered The GT Butterfly House and Bug Zoo, located just 10 minutes east of our route. Our bug-loving daughter relished in being surrounded – quite literally! – by butterflies, and the staff was knowledgeable and kind.
Now just minutes from Traverse City, we returned to the car for a quick drive. This well-known destination sits at the base of a large peninsula, with the East and West Arms of Grand Traverse Bay on either side. The appeal of staying on the East Arm, however, is direct access to its massive sandbar, which extends directly from the shore and deep into the bay. The Alexandra Inn, a locally owned boutique hotel right on the water, fit the bill – and with free on-site parking, too.
By midafternoon, the mist had given way to sunshine, so we delighted in a lazy afternoon on the beach, where our kids resumed their seashell hunts. We later ventured into downtown Traverse City, about 10 minutes away, for dinner at Taproot Cider House, and appreciated how well the farm-to-table restaurant executed an elevated, but still family-friendly, dining experience.
Steve and I feasted on globally inspired dishes, like chicken tikka masala and blackened Great Lakes walleye tacos, while our kids gobbled up fare that was unapologetically kid-friendly. We all crashed easily that evening, our bellies and hearts full.
Day 6: A full day in “T.C.,” featuring cherries, wine and farm-fresh fare
A single day in Traverse City is not nearly enough time for such a hotspot, but we packed in as much as we could, beginning the day at Warehouse MRKT, an indoor hub of shops and services in the Warehouse District. Breakfast at Water Bearer Coffee brought iced lattes and the cafe’s famed “smutty” burritos, which feature tangy jalapeño crema, crispy bacon and scrambled eggs. (The menu includes smoothies and bagels for kiddos, too.)
A forecast filled with rain curtailed our plans, but, had the weather cleared, we would have driven north about 30 minutes to Old Mission Lighthouse Park, at the end of Old Mission Peninsula between the bay’s arms. The peninsula is best known for its wineries and cherry orchards, and both are worth visiting. Small, you-pick cherry farms dot the peninsula’s M-37 highway, and wineries abound, as well. I was told Bonobo Winery – and its crisp Pinot Gris and sweeping vineyard views – is particularly blissful on a warm, summertime afternoon.
With the rain still lingering, we turned to Google yet again – and discovered the city’s affinity for pinball. Yes, pinball! The search led us to Right Brain Brewery and its collection of more than 40 vintage pinball and arcade games. We cashed in $20 worth of quarters for each kid and let them loose, knowing a craft beer was ours for the taking. The kids loved the autonomy, and Steve and I reveled in how the activity afforded us 30 minutes of uninterrupted conversation. I’ve learned that finding opportunities for this type of break is the key to recharging as a parent on vacation.
Much to our surprise, the later afternoon was accompanied by abundant sunshine, so we drove 30 minutes northwest to Farm Club, a restaurant/brewery/market/farm nestled in nearby Leelanau County. We correctly anticipated a long wait time but came prepared – with a small soccer ball to kick back and forth for Lincoln, and a bag filled with coloring pages and crayons for Lily. The outdoor lawn was filled with other patrons, each more friendly than the next, and Steve and I struck up conversation with a man from D.C., who was vacationing in the area with his two grown children. He approached us, asking if they could try to guess where we were from in less than 10 questions. (A great party trick!) The icebreaker proved successful, and we spent a half hour chatting, sharing stories about work and family and life.
Our table was ready just as the sun was setting, and we dined on veggie-forward dishes, like springy pesto cavatelli and kale Caesar salad. (More than 90% of the vegetables and herbs on the menu are grown on site.) I remember beaming with Midwestern pride, wondering how we had ever doubted that a Great Lakes road trip would be a satisfying family vacation.
Day 7: Remarkable views and sandy toes, plus a final evening in Holland
Our final full day was marked by outdoor pursuits, so we rose early, checked out of our hotel, and drove to The Mill Glen Arbor, about 35 minutes from downtown Traverse City.
The riverside cafe and restaurant doubles as a guesthouse and is quite popular, so arriving close to opening, at 8 a.m., has its perks. Steve devoured the breakfast sandwich with spicy mayo (the best like it he’s had, he said), and the kids and I split a few pastries before searching for tadpoles in the river. Once sufficiently caffeinated, we readied ourselves for a day at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, just 10 minutes from The Mill.
The park features both climbable sand dunes and the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive, a 7.4-mile loop, and we chose to tackle the drive first. It features 12 stops, but Stop 9, the Lake Michigan Overlook, was the unmistakable star. The overlook’s dune drops dramatically to the beach, and visitors are encouraged to exert caution if planning to climb down (and back up). We skipped that challenge and simply took in the sheer vastness of the lake views. It was truly remarkable, seeing the green-blue water tuck neatly under the horizon, and a panorama undeniably unique to Michigan. I can only imagine how spectacular the sunset is from this perch, so we made a mental note to weave a late afternoon/ early evening stop into our next trip.
Despite wanting to linger, our itinerary was tight and we still had dunes to scale. And, although the climb to the top of the largest dune was met with a lot of whining, the thrill of running down it was filled with sheer, unbridled joy – a highlight of the trip for all of us, no doubt.
We piled back into the car, sandy feet and all, and began the three-hour drive via U.S. Highway 31 to Holland, our final overnight stop. The kids were understandably tired and cranky, so we indulged – err, pacified – them with a McDonald’s Happy Meal. A double car nap (!) followed.
The overnight stay in Holland, a city known for its springtime tulips, Dutch heritage and burgeoning downtown, was a last-minute addition, so we played it safe and reserved a room at the Courtyard by Marriott Holland Downtown. We took our time walking to dinner, enjoying the slow pace and letting the kids burn off some energy before landing at local favorite Boatwerks Waterfront Restaurant. The return stroll was just as leisurely, with a stop for ice cream and one final craft beer – this time, via New Holland Brewpub.
Downtown Holland also boasts a designated social district, where patrons can purchase a beverage from a participating establishment and consume it out in public, so we enjoyed the beer while watching street performers whose talents left our kids utterly captivated. The experience – that of encountering something new and unfamiliar, and thus cultivating a growth mindset – was the epitome of the undeniable magic found through travel, making the final evening of our trip even sweeter. And, all romanticism aside, if you’d like to bail on driving (and understandably so), you can board the Lake Express Ferry just north of Holland, in Muskegon, and be home in a few hours.
Day 8: The journey home, plus one final treasure hunt
It’s easy to feel discouraged on the final day of a vacation, but the beauty of a road trip lies in the control it affords – and that you can, more often than not, take your time. We began early, with coffees and house-made muffins at Lemonjello’s, before driving an hourish south to Warren Dunes State Park.
We relaxed on the soft-sand beach – and, happily for our daughter – engaged in one final seashell and crab claw hunt. A short drive to our go-to southeast Michigan lunch stop, Journeyman in Three Oaks, followed. If you’d like to linger, Three Oaks boasts a lot of antiques stores, and the distillery’s property features an 18-hole putting green where kids putt free. But home was so close, and we were ready to return to it.
And so we toasted to a week well spent, knowing we had checked all the desired boxes – no airplanes, pockets now filled with sandy treasures, and countless memories made, despite occasionally cranky kids and a few rainstorms. We had conquered what we had set out to do and a good time was had by all, right in our own Midwest backyard.
Scenic Stops
Presque Isle Park, Marquette
Frederick Law Olmsted, who designed New York’s Central Park and Milwaukee’s Lake Park, visited Presque Isle in the late 1800s and encouraged the city to leave it untouched, famously saying, “Preserve it, treasure it, as little altered as may be for all time.”
Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Munising
The park’s famous geological formations – its “Pictured Rocks” – are sandstone cliffs colorfully streaked by iron, copper and manganese minerals.
Old Mission Lighthouse Park, Traverse City
The Mission Point Lighthouse was first lit in 1870 and stayed active through 1933. Only seven keepers have lived in the house, including Sarah Lane, the only female keeper, at the turn of the century.
Mackinac Island State Park
Originally established as Mackinac National Park – a title held from 1875 to 1895, when the state took control – this was the second national park after Yellowstone.
Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, Empire
The story behind the Sleeping Bear name is based on an Ojibwe legend, in which a mother bear and her two cubs swim across the lake to escape a forest fire. The cubs drown before shore, creating two islands, as the mother reaches land. A sole dune – Sleeping Bear Dune – signifies her eternal spot, perched high above the water awaiting her cubs.
Warren Dunes State Park, Sawyer
Depending on the time of year, you can expect to see a wide range of birds stopping over on their migration route.
M-22
This U-shaped road will take you north from Traverse City, across the Leelanau Peninsula, before ending just north of Manistee. Along the 116-mile drive, you’ll see the historic fishing village of Leland, plenty of dunes and gorgeous views of Lake Michigan.
Blue Star Highway (A-2)
See orchards as well as beach communities and shop for antiques along this road, which stretches about 45 miles between Saugatuck and Benton Harbor/St. Joseph.
Red Arrow Highway
This road extends to Kalamazoo, but you can hop on in St. Joseph and drive to its terminus in New Buffalo. Along the way, you’ll find antiques, breweries, plus more dunes and beaches.
